LVMH- Putting Humanity Into “Special Days”
中文(简体) Public
<a href="http://www.utechshop.com/">citizen 鎵嬮尪灏堣常搴?/a>姣忓ぉ鐐哄ぇ瀹跺付渚嗗叏鏂版疆娴佺郴鍒楀柈鍝侊紝鐐烘偍鐨勭敓娲绘坊鍔犳洿澶氱殑鑹插僵锛岀偤鎮ㄧ殑鐢熸椿鍏呮豢娲诲姏锛岃畵鎮ㄦ瘡澶╀笉閲嶈锛岀簿褰╃殑浜虹敓寰炵従鍦ㄩ枊濮嬶紝鏁珛闂滄敞鎴戝€慶itizen 鎵嬮尪灏堣常搴楋紝鎴戝€戝皣鍏ㄦ柊鐨刢itizen澶波鍠搧涓€涓€鍛堢従绲﹀ぇ瀹躲€?div class="intro">鏂囩珷灏庤畝 Antoine Arnault sees kind hearts and character at the heart of his family鈥檚 mighty luxury empire 鏁珛鏈熷緟涓枃鐗?Givenchy s highly-skilled pattern-cutters and seamstresses were among the many hundreds of handworkers who
<p>鏂囩珷灏庤畝</p>
<p>Antoine Arnault sees kind hearts and character at the heart of his family鈥檚 mighty luxury empire</p>
<p>鏁珛鏈熷緟涓枃鐗?/p><p></p><p>Givenchy s
highly-skilled pattern-cutters and seamstresses were among the many
hundreds of handworkers who showcased their talents on the weekend
during the LVMH Journ茅es Particuli猫res 鈥?a
three-day open-house event in which the luxury group invites members of
the public to visit behind-the-scenes at their brands in locations all
around the world</p><p>Marguerite Bornhauser</p><p>The
man in the leather apron was holding up a piece of wood carved roughly
into the shape of a foot. Slowly and carefully he showed the ten-month
progress from its soles to its uppers, and how they were finally joined
together. Hooray for the work of human hands!</p><p>My
visit to the handmakers at Berluti, in what is known as the 鈥済olden
triangle鈥?鈥?high-end Paris edging the Champs-脡lys茅es 鈥?was just one of
many events offered by LVMH 鈥?the luxury goods company with tentacles
stretching across the world.</p><p></p><p>A Berluti craftsman shows visitors the lasts and production process behind the brand s bespoke footwear range during Les Journ茅es Particuli猫res LVMH 2018</p><p>Olivier Vigerie / Berluti</p><p>I was lucky enough to jump the four-hour-long
queue of people waiting to enter the house of Christian Dior. Up the
stairs, where glamorous ball gowns with ballooning skirts were set out
on mannequins, I followed the first visitor group into a room where
little doll-figures wearing miniature versions of couture were
displayed. Other areas showed seamstresses at work or the variety of
processes for watches or handbags.</p><p>Bernard Arnault, Chairman and CEO of LVMH,
raised his camera to snap decorative baby clothes and studied mad hats
produced for Dior by milliner Stephen Jones.</p><p>With Antoine Arnault, the founder鈥檚 eldest son who instigated Les Journ茅es Particuli猫res LVMH
鈥?a three-day weekend of 鈥渙pen house鈥?events 鈥?the head of the luxury
empire moved through different areas at Dior. One showed a line-up of
toiles 鈥?the plain, white-cloth dresses that are the first stage of
couture workmanship.</p><p></p><p>During the Journ茅es Particuli猫res LVMH
2018, members of the public were invited inside the fabled Maison
Christian Dior in Paris and given a behind-the-scenes tour of its
collections and presentations by its handworkers</p><p>Sebastien Gracco de Lay / Dior</p><p>The same idea of development was open to the public at
Givenchy: Up the grand staircase, past a picture of the founder and
films of him with his muse Audrey Hepburn; and then a recreation of
grand gowns that current Artistic Director Clare Waight Keller showed in
haute couture after she had dressed Meghan Markle, Prince Harry鈥檚 royal
bride.</p><p>The next room had the 鈥減etites mains鈥?or hand-workers actually stitching the couture gowns.</p><p>At Givenchy, Sidney Toledano, now Chairman and CEO of
LVMH Fashion Group and previously the long-term CEO at Dior, said, 鈥淎
company like Givenchy must respects its roots 鈥?and the petites mains
are the heart of the house.鈥?/p><p>When I arrived at Asni猫res-sur-Seine
鈥?where the original Louis Vuitton built his trunk-making ateliers in
1859 and his son George built a house in 1892 鈥?I asked Antoine Arnault
what had compelled him to personalise LVMH, a company with a chilly,
imperial feel and so many famous brands.</p><p>As I took in the homey atmosphere with Art Nouveau
decorative windowpanes and photos of the founders framing the walls,
Antoine explained the thought and effort he had put into this fourth
edition of Les Journ茅es Particuli猫res.</p><p>Since
his first tentative efforts seven years ago, the event has now grown
into a worldwide enterprise, and this year, 56 of the LVMH Maisons in 14 countries were open to the public 鈥?some for the very first time.</p><p></p><p>LVMH
CEO Bernard Arnault tours the trunk-making workshops at the Vuitton
family s historic home and atelier in Asni猫res-sur-Seine outside Paris
as part of the Journ茅es Particuli猫res LVMH 2018 open-house event</p><p>Gabriel de la Chapelle / Louis Vuitton</p><p>鈥淚 wanted to make LVMH synonymous with everything I saw 鈥?
the savoir-faire and the preservation of heritage of these wonderful
houses,鈥?Antoine said. 鈥淎t that time, the words around our group were
more about profit, performance, and results 鈥?everything but what I saw
in the ateliers, which was hundreds of people fascinated and full of
passion for their work and craft.鈥?br>The result of this global
initiative is spectacular, although Antoine joked about the three-day
event, 鈥淚f you are a bit adventurous you could actually start in New
Zealand, fly to Australia, then China, Poland, all over Europe, the UK 鈥?
where there are a couple of houses open 鈥?then fly across the Atlantic
to North America, then Argentina, and finish on the West Coast of
America. An LVMH world tour across five continents!鈥?/p><p>The catalogue of brands is impressive 鈥?particularly in
Europe, of course 鈥?and includes, beyond the huddle of big names in
Paris, tanneries near Lyon and Christian Dior Fragrance in the South.
Italy includes Pucci in Florence and Bulgari and Fendi in Rome; Germany
has Rimowa luggage; Spain is home to Loewe in Madrid; and Switzerland to
watch companies. The list seems endless, even before looking beyond
Europe to the rest of the world.</p><p>At the Vuitton viewing, Bernard
Arnault praised his son鈥檚 initiative saying, 鈥淭he number of people and
the impact at Louis Vuitton is extraordinary 鈥?and the work really is by
hand.鈥?br></p><p>But can such a huge company really be local as well as
global? For the visitors 鈥?0% of whom were female on the days I visited 鈥?
there is the fascination of seeing beautiful objects and understanding
how they are made in their most rarefied versions. By contrast, a Louis
Vuitton duty-free boutique at the airport is unlikely to offer a
traditional LV patterned trunk, lined in scarlet, with all the
accoutrements of a Chinese tea ceremony. And the intense embroidery 鈥?
taking 650 hours of handwork, which Natalia Vodianova, Antoine鈥檚
partner, showed their son Maxim 鈥?will not be on offer in any Dior
store, however swanky.</p><p>This Lonely Planet tour of luxury hot spots is surely
designed to create not just desire, but also to encourage customers, who
are increasingly buying online, to re-embrace the idea of place; to
re-kindle the joy of shopping; and to offer miraculous human handcraft
as an antidote to fast fashion.</p><p>There is also an element of celebrity watching,
occasionally openly, with photos of the famous who are loyal to a brand.
Other times the effect is subtle, as in Berluti lining up the moulds of
a well-known client鈥檚 feet, even if, as in the case of Pierre Berg茅,
partner to Yves Saint Laurent, he had passed away.</p><p>The brand easiest to embrace was Sephora, which used its
university in Neuilly, on the outskirts of Paris, to show how it
encourages imaginative outsiders to join the empire. Among LVMH鈥檚
well-known brands 鈥?from historic houses like Guerlain to classics
including Givenchy, Marc Jacobs, and Kenzo to celebrity brands such as
Fenty Beauty By Rihanna 鈥?there were newbies.</p><p>I met
Anju Rupal, who is part of Sephora鈥檚 鈥淎ccelerated Cohort鈥? Originally
from India, she now works out of Switzerland and includes in her organic
beauty-making the importance of planting trees and helping young Indian
women go to school.</p><p></p><p>Sephora University opened its doors to the public during the three-day Journ茅es Particuli猫res LVMH, offering classes and presentations by some of its niche beauty brands</p><p>Deborah Farnault / Sephora</p><p>The Sephora Global CEO of the last seven years,
Christopher de Lapuente, insisted that among the massive growth to 2,700
stores in 34 countries, he encouraged originality and surprise.</p><p>鈥淵ou
really hope that when people come to Sephora they discover big brands
and bestsellers, but also really cool niche brands co-created with
founders,鈥?the executive said. 鈥淭hat is something that generates
excitement. It鈥檚 like a candy store of the beauty business.鈥?/p><p>Sephora is also one of the rare LVMH affordable brands.
Even an expensive fragrance costs less than a scarf at the couture
houses and a fraction of the jewellery brands.</p><p>Having involved 3,000 artisans and creatives and with more than 180,000 visitors, LVMH is calling this year鈥檚 Les Journ茅es Particuli猫res 鈥渦nprecedented鈥?</p><p>For Givenchy鈥檚 seamstresses 鈥?some of whom have toiled
in the shadows for 30 years 鈥?being brought into the spotlight seemed
surprising, even bewildering. They worked in public as they do in their
everyday jobs 鈥?mostly silent, eyes on the material they are shaping and
stitching, answering questions politely, if asked.</p><p>Maybe the finest thing to come out of Les Journ茅es Particuli猫res
is this appreciation of the craft makers. They have progressed from
鈥渓ittle hands鈥?to heroes, fighting fast fashion and its sweatshop
labourers by showing the nobility of their own work.</p><p></p><p>At
the Maison Givenchy in Paris, Antoine Arnault (left) and his father,
LVMH CEO Bernard Arnault, celebrate the couture craftspeople behind the
beautiful clothes and introduce them to the public during Les Journ茅es Particuli猫res LVMH 2018</p><p>Gabrielle de la Chapelle / Givenchy</p><p>鈥淚 am not often proud,鈥?Antoine Arnault said, 鈥渂ut this time I am.鈥?/p>
<p>杞夎級鑱叉槑</p>
<p>鏈収瀹圭郴VOGUE鏅傚皻缍插師鍓垫垨缍撳畼鏂规巿娆婄法璀綁杓夛紝鍤寸浠ヤ换浣曞舰寮忔垨鏂规硶杞夎級鎴栦娇鐢紝閬曡€呰拷绌舵硶寰嬭铂浠汇€?/p>
<p>灏囨枃绔?LVMH: Putting Humanity Into 鈥淪pecial Days鈥?br> 鍠滄鍒板€嬩汉绌洪枔鎴戠殑鍠滄涓€?/p>
<p>鍠滄鐞嗙敱锛?/p>
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鎯宠浜嗚В鏇村闂滄柤<a href="http://www.utechshop.com/uc/men-watch/">citizen 鐢烽尪</a>璩囪▕娑堟伅鐨勬湅鍙嬶紝涓嶅Θ闂滄敞citizen 鎵嬮尪灏堣常搴楀緦绾岀殑鍫遍亾娑堟伅銆傚叏鍫存墍鏈夋柊鍝佷綆鑷?鎶樿捣锛屾柊娆句笉鏂蜂笂鏋讹紝閫辨棩閫辨湯璩肩墿鏇存槸浜湁灏堝爆鎶樻墸鍎儬锛岄鍠滈€ｉ€ｏ紝姝ｅ搧澶波锛屾敮鎸佸皥娅冮璀夛紝7澶╅憭璩炴湡锛?澶╃劇鐞嗙敱閫€鎻涜波锛屽績鍕曪紝涓嶅琛屽嫊锛岃稌绶婁締閬歌臣鍚э紒锛?a href="http://www.utechshop.com/">http://www.utechshop.com/</a>;锛?
<p>鏂囩珷灏庤畝</p>
<p>Antoine Arnault sees kind hearts and character at the heart of his family鈥檚 mighty luxury empire</p>
<p>鏁珛鏈熷緟涓枃鐗?/p><p></p><p>Givenchy s
highly-skilled pattern-cutters and seamstresses were among the many
hundreds of handworkers who showcased their talents on the weekend
during the LVMH Journ茅es Particuli猫res 鈥?a
three-day open-house event in which the luxury group invites members of
the public to visit behind-the-scenes at their brands in locations all
around the world</p><p>Marguerite Bornhauser</p><p>The
man in the leather apron was holding up a piece of wood carved roughly
into the shape of a foot. Slowly and carefully he showed the ten-month
progress from its soles to its uppers, and how they were finally joined
together. Hooray for the work of human hands!</p><p>My
visit to the handmakers at Berluti, in what is known as the 鈥済olden
triangle鈥?鈥?high-end Paris edging the Champs-脡lys茅es 鈥?was just one of
many events offered by LVMH 鈥?the luxury goods company with tentacles
stretching across the world.</p><p></p><p>A Berluti craftsman shows visitors the lasts and production process behind the brand s bespoke footwear range during Les Journ茅es Particuli猫res LVMH 2018</p><p>Olivier Vigerie / Berluti</p><p>I was lucky enough to jump the four-hour-long
queue of people waiting to enter the house of Christian Dior. Up the
stairs, where glamorous ball gowns with ballooning skirts were set out
on mannequins, I followed the first visitor group into a room where
little doll-figures wearing miniature versions of couture were
displayed. Other areas showed seamstresses at work or the variety of
processes for watches or handbags.</p><p>Bernard Arnault, Chairman and CEO of LVMH,
raised his camera to snap decorative baby clothes and studied mad hats
produced for Dior by milliner Stephen Jones.</p><p>With Antoine Arnault, the founder鈥檚 eldest son who instigated Les Journ茅es Particuli猫res LVMH
鈥?a three-day weekend of 鈥渙pen house鈥?events 鈥?the head of the luxury
empire moved through different areas at Dior. One showed a line-up of
toiles 鈥?the plain, white-cloth dresses that are the first stage of
couture workmanship.</p><p></p><p>During the Journ茅es Particuli猫res LVMH
2018, members of the public were invited inside the fabled Maison
Christian Dior in Paris and given a behind-the-scenes tour of its
collections and presentations by its handworkers</p><p>Sebastien Gracco de Lay / Dior</p><p>The same idea of development was open to the public at
Givenchy: Up the grand staircase, past a picture of the founder and
films of him with his muse Audrey Hepburn; and then a recreation of
grand gowns that current Artistic Director Clare Waight Keller showed in
haute couture after she had dressed Meghan Markle, Prince Harry鈥檚 royal
bride.</p><p>The next room had the 鈥減etites mains鈥?or hand-workers actually stitching the couture gowns.</p><p>At Givenchy, Sidney Toledano, now Chairman and CEO of
LVMH Fashion Group and previously the long-term CEO at Dior, said, 鈥淎
company like Givenchy must respects its roots 鈥?and the petites mains
are the heart of the house.鈥?/p><p>When I arrived at Asni猫res-sur-Seine
鈥?where the original Louis Vuitton built his trunk-making ateliers in
1859 and his son George built a house in 1892 鈥?I asked Antoine Arnault
what had compelled him to personalise LVMH, a company with a chilly,
imperial feel and so many famous brands.</p><p>As I took in the homey atmosphere with Art Nouveau
decorative windowpanes and photos of the founders framing the walls,
Antoine explained the thought and effort he had put into this fourth
edition of Les Journ茅es Particuli猫res.</p><p>Since
his first tentative efforts seven years ago, the event has now grown
into a worldwide enterprise, and this year, 56 of the LVMH Maisons in 14 countries were open to the public 鈥?some for the very first time.</p><p></p><p>LVMH
CEO Bernard Arnault tours the trunk-making workshops at the Vuitton
family s historic home and atelier in Asni猫res-sur-Seine outside Paris
as part of the Journ茅es Particuli猫res LVMH 2018 open-house event</p><p>Gabriel de la Chapelle / Louis Vuitton</p><p>鈥淚 wanted to make LVMH synonymous with everything I saw 鈥?
the savoir-faire and the preservation of heritage of these wonderful
houses,鈥?Antoine said. 鈥淎t that time, the words around our group were
more about profit, performance, and results 鈥?everything but what I saw
in the ateliers, which was hundreds of people fascinated and full of
passion for their work and craft.鈥?br>The result of this global
initiative is spectacular, although Antoine joked about the three-day
event, 鈥淚f you are a bit adventurous you could actually start in New
Zealand, fly to Australia, then China, Poland, all over Europe, the UK 鈥?
where there are a couple of houses open 鈥?then fly across the Atlantic
to North America, then Argentina, and finish on the West Coast of
America. An LVMH world tour across five continents!鈥?/p><p>The catalogue of brands is impressive 鈥?particularly in
Europe, of course 鈥?and includes, beyond the huddle of big names in
Paris, tanneries near Lyon and Christian Dior Fragrance in the South.
Italy includes Pucci in Florence and Bulgari and Fendi in Rome; Germany
has Rimowa luggage; Spain is home to Loewe in Madrid; and Switzerland to
watch companies. The list seems endless, even before looking beyond
Europe to the rest of the world.</p><p>At the Vuitton viewing, Bernard
Arnault praised his son鈥檚 initiative saying, 鈥淭he number of people and
the impact at Louis Vuitton is extraordinary 鈥?and the work really is by
hand.鈥?br></p><p>But can such a huge company really be local as well as
global? For the visitors 鈥?0% of whom were female on the days I visited 鈥?
there is the fascination of seeing beautiful objects and understanding
how they are made in their most rarefied versions. By contrast, a Louis
Vuitton duty-free boutique at the airport is unlikely to offer a
traditional LV patterned trunk, lined in scarlet, with all the
accoutrements of a Chinese tea ceremony. And the intense embroidery 鈥?
taking 650 hours of handwork, which Natalia Vodianova, Antoine鈥檚
partner, showed their son Maxim 鈥?will not be on offer in any Dior
store, however swanky.</p><p>This Lonely Planet tour of luxury hot spots is surely
designed to create not just desire, but also to encourage customers, who
are increasingly buying online, to re-embrace the idea of place; to
re-kindle the joy of shopping; and to offer miraculous human handcraft
as an antidote to fast fashion.</p><p>There is also an element of celebrity watching,
occasionally openly, with photos of the famous who are loyal to a brand.
Other times the effect is subtle, as in Berluti lining up the moulds of
a well-known client鈥檚 feet, even if, as in the case of Pierre Berg茅,
partner to Yves Saint Laurent, he had passed away.</p><p>The brand easiest to embrace was Sephora, which used its
university in Neuilly, on the outskirts of Paris, to show how it
encourages imaginative outsiders to join the empire. Among LVMH鈥檚
well-known brands 鈥?from historic houses like Guerlain to classics
including Givenchy, Marc Jacobs, and Kenzo to celebrity brands such as
Fenty Beauty By Rihanna 鈥?there were newbies.</p><p>I met
Anju Rupal, who is part of Sephora鈥檚 鈥淎ccelerated Cohort鈥? Originally
from India, she now works out of Switzerland and includes in her organic
beauty-making the importance of planting trees and helping young Indian
women go to school.</p><p></p><p>Sephora University opened its doors to the public during the three-day Journ茅es Particuli猫res LVMH, offering classes and presentations by some of its niche beauty brands</p><p>Deborah Farnault / Sephora</p><p>The Sephora Global CEO of the last seven years,
Christopher de Lapuente, insisted that among the massive growth to 2,700
stores in 34 countries, he encouraged originality and surprise.</p><p>鈥淵ou
really hope that when people come to Sephora they discover big brands
and bestsellers, but also really cool niche brands co-created with
founders,鈥?the executive said. 鈥淭hat is something that generates
excitement. It鈥檚 like a candy store of the beauty business.鈥?/p><p>Sephora is also one of the rare LVMH affordable brands.
Even an expensive fragrance costs less than a scarf at the couture
houses and a fraction of the jewellery brands.</p><p>Having involved 3,000 artisans and creatives and with more than 180,000 visitors, LVMH is calling this year鈥檚 Les Journ茅es Particuli猫res 鈥渦nprecedented鈥?</p><p>For Givenchy鈥檚 seamstresses 鈥?some of whom have toiled
in the shadows for 30 years 鈥?being brought into the spotlight seemed
surprising, even bewildering. They worked in public as they do in their
everyday jobs 鈥?mostly silent, eyes on the material they are shaping and
stitching, answering questions politely, if asked.</p><p>Maybe the finest thing to come out of Les Journ茅es Particuli猫res
is this appreciation of the craft makers. They have progressed from
鈥渓ittle hands鈥?to heroes, fighting fast fashion and its sweatshop
labourers by showing the nobility of their own work.</p><p></p><p>At
the Maison Givenchy in Paris, Antoine Arnault (left) and his father,
LVMH CEO Bernard Arnault, celebrate the couture craftspeople behind the
beautiful clothes and introduce them to the public during Les Journ茅es Particuli猫res LVMH 2018</p><p>Gabrielle de la Chapelle / Givenchy</p><p>鈥淚 am not often proud,鈥?Antoine Arnault said, 鈥渂ut this time I am.鈥?/p>
<p>杞夎級鑱叉槑</p>
<p>鏈収瀹圭郴VOGUE鏅傚皻缍插師鍓垫垨缍撳畼鏂规巿娆婄法璀綁杓夛紝鍤寸浠ヤ换浣曞舰寮忔垨鏂规硶杞夎級鎴栦娇鐢紝閬曡€呰拷绌舵硶寰嬭铂浠汇€?/p>
<p>灏囨枃绔?LVMH: Putting Humanity Into 鈥淪pecial Days鈥?br> 鍠滄鍒板€嬩汉绌洪枔鎴戠殑鍠滄涓€?/p>
<p>鍠滄鐞嗙敱锛?/p>
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鎯宠浜嗚В鏇村闂滄柤<a href="http://www.utechshop.com/uc/men-watch/">citizen 鐢烽尪</a>璩囪▕娑堟伅鐨勬湅鍙嬶紝涓嶅Θ闂滄敞citizen 鎵嬮尪灏堣常搴楀緦绾岀殑鍫遍亾娑堟伅銆傚叏鍫存墍鏈夋柊鍝佷綆鑷?鎶樿捣锛屾柊娆句笉鏂蜂笂鏋讹紝閫辨棩閫辨湯璩肩墿鏇存槸浜湁灏堝爆鎶樻墸鍎儬锛岄鍠滈€ｉ€ｏ紝姝ｅ搧澶波锛屾敮鎸佸皥娅冮璀夛紝7澶╅憭璩炴湡锛?澶╃劇鐞嗙敱閫€鎻涜波锛屽績鍕曪紝涓嶅琛屽嫊锛岃稌绶婁締閬歌臣鍚э紒锛?a href="http://www.utechshop.com/">http://www.utechshop.com/</a>;锛?
by ziyouxin
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