若要生存，街頭文化必須正視性別 p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p
中文(简体) Public
@RINNYRIOT/HYPEBEAST Fashion 鏅傝 寰炴煇绋剰缇╀笂渚嗚锛孲treetwear 鐨勬牴鍩烘槸涓€绋爡瀹氫笉绉荤殑绀惧崁鎰忚瓨銆傝€岃繎骞存檪灏氱敘妤皪琛楅牠鏂囧寲鐨勮憲杩凤紝涔熸鏄嚭鏂煎皪閫欑ó鎰忚瓨鍜岀湡瀵︽€х殑鐪嬮噸銆傜劧鑰岋紝Streetw
@RINNYRIOT/HYPEBEAST
Fashion 鏅傝
<p>寰炴煇绋剰缇╀笂渚嗚锛孲treetwear 鐨勬牴鍩烘槸涓€绋爡瀹氫笉绉荤殑绀惧崁鎰忚瓨銆傝€岃繎骞存檪灏氱敘妤皪琛楅牠鏂囧寲鐨勮憲杩凤紝涔熸鏄嚭鏂煎皪閫欑ó鎰忚瓨鍜岀湡瀵︽€х殑鐪嬮噸銆傜劧鑰岋紝Streetwear 鐨勯瓍鍔涙牳蹇冧粛鏄皣鐢锋€х兢楂斾綔鐐虹洰妯欙紝鐩＄閫欑ó鍋氭硶宸茬◢椤緱鍋忛洟涓绘祦 鈥?鍌崇当鍝佺墝鏃╁凡鍩硅偛鍑哄ぇ閲忛嚌灏嶅コ鎬х殑楂樼礆濂緢鍝侊紝鑰岃闋湇椋惧墖瀹屽叏鐩稿弽銆傝闋枃鍖栫敘妤緸杩戝勾璧锋墠闁嬪灏嶅コ鎬х兢楂旂郸浜堟噳鏈夌殑灏婇噸锛屼絾瀹冪殑鏍规簮鏃╁湪骞惧崄骞村墠灏卞凡寤虹珛锛屾渶鏃╁彲浠ヨ拷婧埌 80 鑷?90 骞翠唬鐨勫弽鍌崇当鏂囧寲锛圕ounterculture锛夈€傞毃钁楀叏鐞冨寲鐨勮叧姝ワ紝琛楅牠鏂囧寲鐨勯潰璨岀洝绠′笉鏂锋敼璁婏紝浣嗕粛鏄彈濉楅磯銆佸樆鍝堛€佹粦鏉裤€佽闋拰娌栨氮绛夌ぞ鍗€鏂囧寲鐨勫奖闊匡紝鑰岄€欎簺绀惧崁鏂囧寲鍦ㄥ偝绲变笂閮芥槸鐢锋€у崰涓诲皫鍦颁綅銆?/p>
<p>銆屽緸涓€闁嬪锛?Streetwear 灏变竴鐩翠唬琛ㄨ憲鐗圭珛鐛ㄨ鐨勭敺鎬т簨鐗┿€嶏紝娲涙潐纾闋搧鐗?The Hundreds 鐨勪富鐞嗕汉 Bobby Kim 閫欐ǎ瑾亾锛屼粬鍦?2003 骞存垚绔嬪搧鐗岋紝銆屼絾鎴戣獚鐐哄緸涓€闁嬪灏辨槸閫欐ǎ鐨勫師鍥狅紝鑸囧叾鑳屽緦鐨勪簽鏂囧寲鎭伅鐩搁棞銆傘€嶉牀鍏疯鍒烘剰鍛崇殑鏄紝銆孲treetwear銆嶇殑姒傚康浼间箮寰炰竴闁嬪灏辩珯鍦ㄧ灜銆孎ashion銆嶇殑灏嶇珛闈€傚湪鐣舵檪锛岀敺鎬х兢楂旇垏鏅傚皻鍝佺墝琛屾キ闆欐柟閮藉瓨鍦ㄨ憲涓嶅皯蹇借鑸囪瑙ｃ€傝€?Streetwear 鎵紨鐨勬洿鍍忔槸涓€鍊?Game Changer 鐨勮鑹诧紝浣垮緱瑕忓墖璁婂寲锛屼娇寰楃敺澹彲浠ラ€氶亷涓嶅悓棰ㄦ牸琛ㄩ仈鑷繁锛屼笉蹇呮摂蹇冩渻鍥犳琚布涓婁笉鍚堥仼鐨勭ぞ鏈冩绨姐€傘€屽皪鏂奸偅浜涘皪鏈嶉＞鍜屾檪灏氭劅鑸堣叮鐨勭敺浜轰締瑾紝Streetwear 鏄竴绋洿绨″柈鐨勬柟寮忥紝姝ゅ锛屽皪鏂煎悓鎬х兢楂旇€岃█锛屼篃鏄竴绋洿鐐洪毐韬殑鏂瑰紡 鈥? 鐒¤珫鏄兂琛ㄧず鎴栨帺椋鹃€欑ó韬唤銆傘€岯obby Kim 瑁滃厖閬撱€?/p>
<p class="wp-caption-text" >Supreme x Fox Racing SS18 Collection</p><p>Streetwear 鐐虹敺澹€戝壍閫犵灜涓€鍊嬫柊鐨勭穵瀵嗙浉閫ｇ殑绀句氦绌洪枔锛岃嚜姝わ紝闀锋湡浠ヤ締寤虹珛鏂兼斂娌汇€侀珨鑲层€侀煶妯傚拰钘濊鎰涘ソ鐨勫弸鎯呮墠闁嬪璧板悜鏅傚皻銆傘€孲treetwear 鐢㈡キ涓€闁嬪鏄互鐧戒汉鐢锋€х偤涓诲皫锛岄€欎笉鏄竴浠跺浜嬶紝浣嗗緦渚嗗畠闁嬪璁婃垚鐧戒汉鐢锋€ц嚜濞涜嚜妯傜殑褰㈠紡锛岀敱鐧戒汉閬嬬嚐鍐嶈常绲︾櫧浜猴紝璁婃垚鐬竴鍊嬮潪甯稿皝闁夌殑绌洪枔銆嶏紝Bobby Kim 瑁滃厖閬撱€?/p>
<p>鍦ㄦ鍩虹涓婏紝 Streetwear 閫愭几鍦ㄦ檪灏氱晫浠ュ強鍏朵粬鏂囧寲鐢㈡キ涓劔绌庤€屽嚭锛屼絾瀹冧粛鏄竴鍊嬫姭钁楃ぞ鍗€鏂囧寲绮剧鐨勫琛ｃ€岀敺瀛╀勘妯傞儴銆嶃€傚彈鐢锋€х壒娆婄殑鏀寔锛?Streetwear 鎴愮偤绀句氦绌洪枔涓殑鑹ソ娼ゆ粦鍔戯紝鍚屾檪涔熷挤鍖栫灜涓€绋柊鍨嬬殑棰ㄦ牸锛屼絾瀹冪殑鏈韩鏄熀鏂兼€у垾姝ц鍜屽皪濂虫€х殑浜烘牸鐗╁寲銆?/p>
Streetwear鈥檚 Roots of Sexism
<p>
鍤撮叿鐨勭従瀵︽槸锛岄€欏€嬨€岀敺瀛╀勘妯傞儴銆嶇殑蹇冩厠寰€寰€鏈冨壍閫犱竴鍊嬪皪濂虫€фサ鐐轰笉鍙嬪ソ鐨勭挵澧冦€傘€屽湪绱愮磩锛屾湁涓€浜?Streetwear 搴楄垨鏈冮泧鍌灜涓€澶х兢榄佹ⅶ绮楁毚鐨勭敺鎬у簵鍝★紝鑰屾垜鐨勫緢澶氭湅鍙嬮兘閬埌鐬敾鎿娿€嶏紝Married to the Mob 鍓靛浜虹殑 Leah McSweeney 鍦ㄨ鍟忓強 Streetwear 鐨勬棭鏈熸枃鍖栫挵澧冩檪閫欐ǎ瑾亾銆?/p>
<p>Leah McSweeney 鏂?2004 骞村壍绔嬬灜濂圭殑鍊嬩汉鍝佺墝锛屽ス鏄コ鎬?Streetwear 鐨勬棭鏈熷厛椹呬箣涓€锛屼甫涓€鐩磋嚧鍔涙柤濉閫欏绌虹櫧锛屾墦鎿婅妤皪濂虫€х殑涓嶅叕骞冲皪寰呫€傚ス鏃╂湡鏈€鍏锋蹇楁€х殑瑷▓涔嬩竴鏄€孲upreme Bitch銆嶏紝鐒惰€屽緦渚嗚 Supreme 瑷翠互鍟嗘渚垫瑠涓︾储璩?1000 钀編鍏冦€傛渶鍏疯鍒烘剰鍛崇殑鏄紝Supreme 鏈韩涔熸槸鐩存帴寰炶棟琛撳偄 Barbara Kruger 铏曠洿鎺ョ洔鐢ㄧ灜妯欏織銆?/p>
<p>
</p>
<p>鈥淚t was definitely very predatory. It鈥檚 almost sad how much it was. It was such a part of my world that I didn鈥檛 realize it was a bad thing.鈥?/q></p>
<p>閫犲瀷甯吋鍓垫剰绺界洠 Beth Bephie Gibb 鍦?90 骞翠唬涓湡鏇惧湪 St眉ssy 鍜?Supreme 宸ヤ綔锛屽ス涔熺偤鎴戝€戝洖椤х灜鐣舵檪閫欎簺绱愮磩钁楀悕婊戞澘鍟嗗簵涓殑甯歌鎺犲オ寮忔枃鍖栥€傘€岄€欑ó鎺犲オ鐨勬柟寮忔槸澶氶杭鐨勪护浜洪洠閬庯紝閫欐槸鎴戠暥鏅傜敓娲荤殑涓€閮ㄥ垎锛屼絾鎴戞矑鏈夋剰璀樺埌閫欐槸涓€浠跺浜嬨€傘€?/p>
<p>闅ㄨ憲鍏叡瑭辫獮娆婄殑杞夎畩锛岀劇璜栨槸濂虫€ч倓鏄敺鎬ч兘鏈夌灜鏇撮枊鏀剧殑绌洪枔渚嗗垎浜粬鍊戠殑鍊嬩汉缍撴銆傞€氶亷閫欑ó灏嶈┍锛屾垜鍊戝彲浠ユ繁鍒诲弽鎬濆湪宸ヤ綔鍫存墍涓殑鎬у垾姝ц鎵€鍙兘鐢㈢敓鐨勫奖闊匡紝鍖呮嫭濂虫€ф瘮鐢锋€у彈鍒扮殑绯荤当鍫遍叕灏戯紝浠ュ強闀锋湡鐨勬€чǚ鎿惧拰铏愬緟銆?/p>
<p>鐢辨柤鐢锋€т富灏庣殑鏍瑰熀锛孲treetwear 涔熸槸閫欑ó绀炬渻绲愭鐨勪竴鍊嬬府褰憋紝鐢氳嚦鎴愮偤閫欎簺鍟忛鐨勬韩搴娿€傞棞鏂笺€岀敺瀛╀勘妯傞儴銆嶅収閮ㄧ殑瑾炶█鍜岃鐐猴紝Gibb 瑁滃厖閬擄紝銆屼竴鍒囬兘鍗佸垎浠や汉鍘儭銆傜従鍦ㄤ綘鍙兘鏇村父鑱藉埌鎴栫湅鍒伴€欎簺鐝捐薄锛屼絾鍦ㄧ暥鏅傦紝鏁村€嬪勾杓曠敺瀛╃殑涓栫晫閮借鍏佽ū鍋氶浼肩殑浜嬶紝瑾浼肩殑瑭憋紝渚嗕互淇濇寔鎵€璎傜殑銆嶫ust Boys’銆傞€欐槸涓€鍊嬬敺瀛╀勘妯傞儴锛屼粬鍊戝緢骞磋紩锛岃€屼笖寰堜笉鎴愮啛銆傘€?/p>
<p>
</p>
<p>鐐虹灜瑕佷繚鎸侀€欑ó銆孞ust Boys銆嶏紝鏁村€?Streetwear 鏂囧寲琛屾キ鐨勫弮鑸囪€咃紝寰炰笂鑷充笅锛岄兘鏈夋剰璀樺湴锛堢洝绠℃湁鏅傚湪涓嶇煡涓嶈涓級鍓甸€犵灜涓€绋績閫茬敺鎬у湗绲愶紝鍚屾檪鎺掓枼濂虫€у弮鑸囪€呯殑鐠板銆傞毃钁楄秺渚嗚秺澶氱殑鐢锋€ч枊濮嬮棞瑷?Streetwear锛岀敺鎬т富灏庣殑绀惧崁瑷存眰浠嶇劧鏄叾鐧煎睍鐨勯噸瑕佺祫鎴愰儴鍒嗐€傚拰鍏朵粬鐢风敓涓€璧锋帓闅婄瓑寰呮渶鏂扮殑鍠搧鐧煎敭锛岄€欑ó鐝捐薄浼间箮鎴愮偤鐬€岃闋枃鍖栥€嶇殑浠ｅ悕瑭炪€?/p>
<p>闅ㄨ憲鏁稿瓧鏅備唬鐨勫埌渚嗭紝閫欑ó绀惧崁鎰忚瓨鍦ㄧ恫涓婂緱鍒扮灜鐒￠檺鏀惧ぇ锛屽悇绋钩鑷虹偤蹇楄叮鐩告姇鐨勪汉鍊戝壍閫犵灜涓€鍊嬫暩瀛楃┖闁擄紝浠ュ缓绔嬬湡姝ｇ殑鑱郴锛岃垏姝ゅ悓鏅傦紝瀹冧篃鐐烘儭榄斿壍閫犵灜婧簥銆?/p>
<p>鈥淭he thing that people were saying on these forums was nuts. 鈥業 hope she gets AIDS, she鈥檚 just sucking dick to get into the scene.鈥欌€?/q></p>
<p>鍦ㄥ叕鐪剧洠鐫ｈ寖鍦嶅鐨勯€欎簺浜掕伅缍茶钀戒腑锛屼富瑕佺敱鐢锋€х祫鎴愮殑绀句氦骞宠嚭涓嶄箯璨朵綆濂虫€х殑瑷€璜栵紝鐢氳嚦閭勬秹鍙婂皪鍏朵粬绀剧兢鐨勬瑕栬█璜栥€傘€屼粬鍊戝湪閫欎簺骞宠嚭涓婃渻瑾嚭瑷卞鎯℃瘨鐨勮┍锛屻€庢垜甯屾湜濂瑰緱鑹炬粙鐥呫€忥紝銆庡ス姝诲緦涔熶笉鑳戒笂澶╁爞銆忎箣椤炵殑銆嶏紝McSweeney 鍥炴喍閬撱€?/p>
<p>铏涙摤灞忓箷鎵€鎺堜簣鐨勯€欑ó鍖垮悕鎬э紝浠ュ線瑷卞琚毐钘忕殑瑷€璜栧浠婂彲浠ヨ倖鐒″繉鎲氬湴鏆撮湶銆傚緸鍝佺墝 Campaign銆丩ookbook锛屽埌 T-Shirt 涓婄殑鍗拌姳鍦栨锛岄€欎簺琚獚鐐烘槸 Streetwear 鐨勬牳蹇冨惛寮曢粸鍗诲線寰€婊嬬敓鍑轰笉骞崇瓑鍜屽皪濂虫€х殑瓒呮€у寲銆?/p>
<p class="wp-caption-text" >Founder of Some Ware, Brendon Fowler (left)</p><p>閫欑ó鍔涢噺涔嬪挤浠ヨ嚧鏂间笉灏戣闋搧鐗?DNA 涓湁鐬€欑ó鎴愬垎锛岀敋鑷宠獚鐐猴紝灏囧搧鐗屾垨琛屾キ鍚戝コ鎬ч枊鏀惧彲鑳芥渻鎼嶅閫欑ó DNA銆傘€屾垜瑾嶇偤涓€浜涘勾杓曠殑鐢峰娑堣不鑰呴倓鎶辨湁涓€绋惤寰岀殑鎬濈董锛岃獚鐐哄コ鎬х┛钁?Unisex 鐨勬湇椋惧氨鏄儭渚嗭紝鑰岄偅浜涘皥鐐哄コ鎬ф墦閫犵殑鏈嶉＞涔熶甫涓嶉仼鍚堝ス鍊戙€嶏紝Some Ware 鐨勫壍濮嬩汉鍏煎壍鎰忕附鐩?Brendan Fowler 琛ㄧず锛屽搧鐗岀殑瑷▓涓€璨噰鐢?Unisex 鐨勯ⅷ鏍硷紝銆屾垨瑷变粬鍊戦毣鏄繏鎱ｆ柤鐢ㄥ骞翠互渚嗙繏寰楃殑鎬у垾棰ㄦ牸渚嗘€濊€冦€傘€?/p>
<p>闅ㄨ憲鏅備唬娼祦鐨勬洿鐤婏紝鏂囧寲鐨勫収娑靛拰鑳屾櫙纰哄鍦ㄨ畩鍖栵紝銆孊oys will be boys銆嶄甫涓嶈兘鎴愮偤閭ｄ簺琛ㄩ仈鐬コ鎬х墿鍖栫殑鍦栬薄銆佽﹩姣€濂虫€х殑宸ヤ綔鐠板銆佷互鍙婃矑鏈夋纰烘寚灏庣敺瀛╁€戣█琛岀殑钘夊彛銆?/p>
Women鈥檚 Path of Breaking In: The Exceptions
<p>
鐩＄ Streetwear 鐨勫ぇ澶氭暩钁楃敤鑰呴兘鏄敺鎬э紝浣嗗コ鎬ц闋檪灏氬厛椹呭悓妯ｄ篃鐐虹従鍦ㄧ殑琛楅牠娴佽浣滃嚭閬庡倯鍑虹殑璨㈢嵒锛岄毣鏄€欑ó璨㈢嵒寰€寰€鏄崄鍒嗗鏄撹澶х溇鎵€蹇界暐鐨勩€備簨瀵︿笂锛岄浂鍞晢 Union 鍦ㄧ磹绱勮闋枊瑷殑绗竴闁撳簵鑸栵紝鎴愮偤鐬闋湇椋炬鍙蹭笂鐨勪竴鍊嬮噸瑕佺殑瑁＄▼纰戯紝璞″緛钁楄闋祦琛屾湇椋剧殑鍟嗘キ鍖栵紝鑰岄€欎笉鍍呭儏姝稿姛鏂?James Jebbia锛屼篃寰楃泭鏂间粬鐨勫コ鎬ф惌妾?Mary Ann Fusco 鐨勭獊鍑鸿并鐛汇€傞櫎鐬叡鍚岄枊瑷闋湇椋鹃浂鍞晢搴?Union 浠ュ锛屽叐浜洪倓鏇惧叡鍚屽壍绔嬬灜鐣朵粖鏈€鍏峰奖闊垮姏鐨勮闋搧鐗?Supreme锛屼絾浣滅偤濂虫€у壍濮嬩汉鐨?Fusco 鍗诲父甯歌涓栦汉鎵€蹇界暐銆?/p>
<p>Gibb 瑾亾锛氥€孧ary Ann 鏄闋湇椋惧晢妤寲鐨勫厛閶掕€呬箣涓€锛屼絾浣犲彲鑳藉緸渚嗛兘娌掓湁鑱借閬庨€欏€嬪悕瀛椼€傘€嶈嚦浠婇兘娌掓湁鑳藉鏄庣櫧鐐轰粈楹兼棭鏈熺殑琛楅牠鏅傚皻濂充腑璞倯娌掓湁鑳藉寰楀埌澶х溇鐨勮獚鍙紝灏遍€?Fusco 鑷繁閮芥劅鍒扮枒鎯戙€傘€屾湁鏅傚€欐垜鏈冩劅鍒板緢姘ｆ啢銆嶏紝Fusco 鍧愬湪濂圭殑鍙よ憲鍟嗗簵 Maison Jadis 瑁¤閬擄紝銆屾浘缍撴槸鎴戣畵鎵€鏈夌殑搴楄垨閮借蛋鍚戠灜姝ｈ粚锛屼絾 James 姘搁仩涓嶆渻鎵胯獚 鈥?濡傛灉娌掓湁鐣舵檪鐨勬垜锛屽氨娌掓湁鐝惧湪鐨勪粬銆傘€?/p>
<p>
</p>
<p>銆屾垜鎯充竴閮ㄥ垎鐨勫師鍥犳噳瑭叉槸锛屽ぇ閮ㄥ垎濂虫€ф槸琚敺鎬у付閫茶闋檪灏氱殑鍦堝瓙瑁°€傛鏄洜鐐烘湁閫欑ó涓嶅厜褰╃殑浜嬫儏鐧肩敓锛屽湪琛楅牠鏂囧寲涓墠娌掍汉姝ｈ濂虫€с€傘€岹ibb 瑙ｉ噵閬撱€?/p>
<p>鐒¤珫鏄洜鐐虹埗娆婂埗鏀厤钁楀獟楂斿拰澶栭儴鐨勬梺瑙€鑰呮垨鏄亱鍕曠殑鍏ч儴绲愭锛屽コ鎬ч兘琚媼妫勫湪琛楅牠鏈嶉＞鐨勬鍙查暦娌充箣澶栥€傞€欓兘鏄湪閫欐閬撹矾涓婂凡缍撶暀涓嬫繁鍒诲奖闊跨殑濂虫€ц嚜鎴戞剰璀樺拰鍫呮寔鎶楃埈鎬у垾鍕曞姏鐨勭祼鏋溿€傘€屽湪寰堝琛楅牠鏈嶉＞鍏徃鍜屽搧鐗屽収閮戒互鐢锋€у摗宸ョ偤涓伙紝鍥犳锛屼綔鐐轰竴鍊嬪コ鎬ф兂瑕佸湪鏈冭涓埈鍙栬┍瑾炴瑠鏄竴鍊嬭瓑鏄庤嚜鎴戠殑宸ㄥぇ鎸戞埌銆嶏紝鐢疯鍝佺墝 ALCH 鍓靛浜?Alexandra Hackett 濡傛槸瑾亾銆傛濡傛墍鏈夎妤竴妯ｏ紝璐忓緱瑭辫獮娆婃垚鐐虹灜濂虫€х殑鑷垜鎸戞埌锛岄€欎笉鍍呮帹鍕曠灜濂虫€ц闋枃鍖栫殑閫茬▼锛屼篃鍚屾檪鐐哄叾浠栫壒鎰涜闋枃鍖栫殑濂虫€фü绔嬬灜姝ｇ⒑鐨勬妯ｃ€?/p>
<p class="wp-caption-text" >Founder of ALCH, Alexandra Hackett</p><p>鈥淚t was a way of growing up in the hood and being fashionable and saying I鈥檓 a tough girl, don鈥檛 holla me on the street. In a way it was fashion but it was also protection.鈥?/q></p>
<p>銆屼綔鐐轰竴鍚嶅皪宸ヤ綔鍜岃棟琛撻兘闈炲父瑾嶇湡鍜屽皥瑷荤殑骞磋紩濂虫€э紝閫欐槸鎴戝拰鐢锋€ц闈甫涓嶈鍏剁墿鍖栫殑涓€绋柟寮忋€傘€峍ashtie Kola 瑙ｉ噵濂圭偤浠€楹兼渻鍠滄涓?銆岀敺鎬у寲銆?鐨勮闋ⅷ鏍笺€侹ola 鍚屾檪涔熸槸涓€鍊嬮煶妯傝闋诲皫婕旓紝鍦?2000 骞存棭鏈熺殑绱愮磩甯備腑蹇冧勘妯傞儴鏂囧寲涓璀界偤鍏堥﹨銆?010骞达紝濂规垚鐐烘鍙蹭笂绗竴浣嶈垏 Jordan Brand 鍚堜綔鐨勫コ鎬? 浣嗕簨瀵︿笂閫欎篃鏄?Jordan II 鐨勭涓€娆¤伅鍚嶃€?/p>
<p>銆岀洝绠℃湁濂虫€у厓绱犵殑鍙冭垏锛屼絾鏁撮珨涓婇倓鏄憟鐝惧崄鍒嗙敺鎬у寲鐨勯ⅷ鏍笺€傚湪鎴戜締鐪嬮€欐槸涓€绋垚闀风殑鏂瑰紡锛屽湪鏅傞鐨勫悓鏅傦紝鎴戦倓鎯宠〃閬旓細銆庢垜鏄竴鍊嬪爡寮风殑濂冲锛屾墍浠ヤ笉瑕佸湪琛椾笂灏嶆垜澶у懠灏忓彨銆傘€忓湪鏌愮ó绋嬪害涓婇€欐槸涓€绋檪楂︼紝浣嗚垏姝ゅ悓鏅傞€欎篃鏄湪鑷垜淇濊銆傘€岾ola 瑁滃厖閬撱€?/p>
<p class="wp-caption-text" >Jordan Brand Collaborator, Vashtie Kola</p><p>鍌崇当鐨勭敺鎬х壒寰佸拰鍏冪礌宸茬稉鎴愮偤琚€孊oy’s Club銆嶆帴绱嶇殑濂虫€ф垚鍝＄殑韬唤瑾嶈瓑銆?Kola銆丮cSweeney銆丟ibb 鍜?KITH 鏇剧稉鐨勫コ鎬ч牁灏庝汉 Emily Oberg 閮芥浘鍏枊琛ㄨ堪閬庯紝浠栧€戞浘缍撹鐢锋€у寲鐨勮闋ⅷ鏍兼墍鍚稿紩锛屼甫涓斿湪鎴愰暦鐠板涓父甯歌鐢锋€ц鑹叉墍鍦嶇篂銆傘€屾垜鏇剧稉鍦ㄨ韩閭婂叏鏄敺瀛╃殑鐠板涓嬮暦澶э紝涓︿笖鎴愮偤鍋囧皬瀛愭渻璁撴垜瑕哄緱寰堣嚜鍦紝鎵€浠ユ垜灏嶅浣曡瀺鍏ョ敺鎬т富灏庣殑涓栫晫涔熺挡姣矑鏈夊鍔涖€嶏紝鏈€杩戝墰鍓涜垏 Jordan Brand 鍚堜綔閬庣殑閫犲瀷甯?Aleali May 瑾亾銆?/p>
<p class="wp-caption-text" >Alkali May, by Adam Katz Sinding/Le 21eme</p><p>鐢辨柤琛楅牠鏅傚皻渚嗚嚜鏂肩敺鎬э紝鍥犳鏈€鏃╄琛楅牠棰ㄦ牸鎵€鍚稿紩鐨勫コ鎬ч兘灏嶅偝绲辩殑鐢锋€чⅷ鏍煎拰鎰涘ソ鎰熻垐瓒ｃ€傚緸鏌愮ó鎰忕京涓婁締璎涳紝濂瑰€戦兘鐢熶笉閫㈡檪锛屽皪鏂煎儚 May 鍜?Kola 閫欐ǎ鐨勫コ鎬т締瑾紝閫欐剰鍛宠憲涓€绋鎺ョ磵鐨勬劅瑕恒€?銆屾垜瑕哄緱鎴戣鎺ュ彈鐬紝鍥犵偤鎴戞槸涓€鍊嬨€庡亣灏忓瓙銆忋€岾ola 瑾€?銆屾垜瑾嶇偤锛屾垜浠ユ煇绋柟寮忚瀺鍏ョ灜鐢峰锛岄€欏皪鎴戜締瑾氨鍍忔粦鍐颁竴妯ｅ榄氬緱姘淬€傘€?/p>
<p>鐣剁劧锛屼甫涓嶆槸鎵€鏈夊枩鎰?Streetwear 鐨勫コ鎬ч兘鏈冨湪銆屽亣灏忓瓙銆嶇殑蹇冩厠涓壘鍒拌獚鍚屾劅锛屼篃涓︿笉鏄墍鏈夊枩鎰涜闋枃鍖栫殑濂虫€ч兘鎰熷埌琚拷瑕栧拰涓嶅皧閲嶃€傘€屾垜浠ュ墠鏄垜鑷繁鐨勮€佹澘锛屾垜鎺屾帶鎵€鏈夌殑浜嬫儏锛岃€岄偅浜涚敺浜哄€戝墖闇€瑕佽伣浠ゆ柤鎴戙€嶏紝鏃╂湡鎺屾彙娆婂姏鐨?Fusco 濡傛槸瑾亾銆?/p>
<p>鈥淛ust because I鈥檓 鈥榓ccepted鈥?doesn鈥檛 mean that men should go around disrespecting other women.鈥?/q></p>
<p>灏嶆柤鍏朵粬濂虫€т締瑾紝鍙冭垏鍒拌闋檪灏氫腑鍜屾垚鐐轰竴鍊嬨€屽亣灏忓瓙銆?锛屾槸濂瑰€戠敤渚嗘墦鐮村偝绲辨€у垾瑙掕壊鍗€鍒嗗拰鍌崇当鎬у垾鏈熸湜鐨勪唬鍚嶈銆傘€屾垜鍦ㄦ煇绋▼搴︿笂琚帴鍙楁垚鐐轰竴鍊嬬敺瀛? 浣嗛€欎笉浠ｈ〃鎴戣獚鍚屼粬鍊戝彲浠ヤ笉灏婇噸浠讳綍濂虫€с€傘€峂cSweeney 瑾亾銆?/p>
<p>鍚屾檪锛岃闋枃鍖栦甫涓嶆槸鎲戠┖鍑虹従鐨勶紝濡備粖琛楅牠鏂囧寲涔熶笉鍙兘鎲戠┖鐢熷瓨涓嬪幓銆傛墍浠ワ紝鎯宠鎵撶牬鍌崇当瑙€蹇电殑琛楅牠濂虫€у繀闋堝緸闊虫▊銆佽闋诲拰钘濊绛夋柟闈㈡寔绾屾姉鐖笅鍘汇€傛垚鐐鸿闋疆娴佺殑涓€浠藉瓙锛屼甫涓嶄唬琛ㄩ毣闇€瑕佽瀺鍏ュ埌鐢锋€у湗楂旓紝鑰屼笖闇€瑕佸コ鎬у湪鏂囧寲璨㈢嵒涓婇渶瑕佹寔绾屽姫鍔涗甫鎴愮偤琛楅牠鏂囧寲鐨勪富鍔涜粛銆?/p>
<p>濡傛灉闅绘槸鍠磾鐨勬兂椤涜鐖舵瑠鍒剁殑绀炬渻褰㈡厠鑰屾姷鍒跺コ鎬у湪琛楅牠娼祦涓墍鍙楀埌鐨勬瑕栵紝閫欑ó鎯虫硶涓嶅儏鏄墖闈㈢殑锛岃€屼笖閭勯樆绀欑灜琛楅牠鏈嶉＞鐨勭櫦灞曞拰娼涘湪澧為暦銆?/p>
Dismantling the 鈥淏oys鈥?Club鈥?/h2>
<p>
闅ㄨ憲琛楅牠鏈嶉＞甯傚牬鐨勫闀峰拰鍌崇当鏅傚皻鍒嗙晫鐨勬ā绯婏紝琛楅牠鏈嶉＞鐨勯潰璨屽繀鐒舵渻鏀硅畩鍜岀櫦灞曘€備絾浠嶆湁寰呰瀵熺殑鏄紝鏄惁琛楅牠鏈嶉＞鐨勮畩鍖栦篃鏈冭垏绀句氦姘ｅ€欏拰甯傚牬闇€姹傜殑璁婂寲鐩稿惢鍚堛€?/p>
<p>銆屽コ鎬т簨妤櫦灞曞埌鐝惧湪锛屾垜鍊戝凡缍撳彲浠ヨ鍑鸿嚜宸辩殑鐪熷鎯虫硶鐬€傚コ鎬ц闋湇椋惧競鍫撮毃钁楀コ鎬ч亱鍕曡€屽闀凤紝鐝惧湪鐨勫コ鎬ц闋湇椋惧競鍫村凡缍撴瘮浠ュ墠澶у緢澶氱灜銆傘€岾ola 瑾亾锛屻€屽皪鏂艰ū澶氭柊閫插叆閫欏€嬪競鍫寸殑鍝佺墝渚嗚锛岀瀯婧栧コ鎬ц闋湇椋炬秷璨昏€呮槸涓€鍊嬮潪甯告槑鏅轰甫鏈夊埄鍙湒鐨勬焙瀹氥€備絾鏄紝閫欎篃寰€寰€瀹规槗璁撻€欎簺鍝佺墝闄峰叆涓€鍊嬭糠鎬濅腑锛岄偅灏辨槸銆庡コ鎬ф湇椋惧繀闋堣绮夌磪锛屽繀闋堣灏忕⒓銆忋€傘€?/p>
<p>鈥淲omen feel confident and cool in their oversized clothes now. We don鈥檛 need tight dresses to feel feminine.鈥?/q></p>
<p>鍚屾ǎ Hackett 涔熻锛氥€岃ū澶氬搧鐗岄兘涓嶆槑鐧芥煇鍊嬬壒瀹氳妤槸鎬庢ǎ閬嬩綔鐨勩€傛垜宸茬稉鐪嬮亷澶鍝佺墝瑾嶇偤濂崇敓灏辨槸鎳夎┎鍠滄绮夎壊鍜屽ア鑿殑闈㈡枡銆傘€?/p>
<p>鐒¤珫鏄€佸搧鐗岄倓鏄柊鍝佺墝锛屾剰璀樺埌鎿鍌崇当鐨勭敺鎬ф埃璩紝涓﹁獚璀樺埌鐒℃€у垾鎵嶆槸琛楅牠鏅傚皻鏈締鎵嶆槸鎴愬姛鐨勯噸瑕侀棞閸点€傘€岀従鍦ㄧ殑濂虫€ц獚鐐?Oversized 鏈嶉＞鑳藉绲︿粬鍊戝付渚嗚嚜淇★紝 鎴戝€戜笉闇€瑕佺穵韬。鏈嶄締鎰熷彈濂虫€ч瓍鍔涖€嶏紝鑾柉绉戣憲鍚嶈闋湇瑁濆拰鏅傚皻璨锋墜搴?KM20 鐨勫壍濮嬩汉 Olga Karput 瑾€?/p>
<p class="wp-caption-text" >Pioneer of the ‘Streetwear Feminism’ Movement, Adrianne Ho</p><p>鐣㈢珶锛孴-Shirt 鍜?Hoodie 鎵嶆槸琛楅牠鏈嶉＞鐨勬牳蹇冿紝鍏舵湰璩氨鏄敺濂崇殕瀹滐紝 閫欎篃鏄皣渚嗚闋湇椋捐綁璁婁腑涓嶅彲鍋忛洟鐨勬牳蹇冦€傝ū澶氬搧鐗屽拰鍏徃閮藉湪鍚戦€欎竴姒傚康闈犳攺锛屽氨閫ｆ浘缍撳绋辩劇鎬у垾鐨勮闋湇椋炬蹇垫槸鐥呮厠鐨勫ア渚堝搧鐗岄兘澶ц伈鍛煎枈瑕佸姞鍏ラ€欎竴娴疆銆?/p>
<p>浜嬪涓婏紝鍍?Vetements锛孫ff-White鈩紝Heron Preston 鍜?ALYX 閫欐ǎ鐨勮闋疆娴佺殑鏂板鍏掗兘鏄€氶亷濂虫€х敘鍝佺殑鎺ㄥ嫊鑰屽彇寰楁垚鍔熺殑銆傝垏姝ゅ悓鏅傦紝Balenciaga 鍜?Gucci 绛夊偝绲卞搧鐗屼篃鍥犻噰鐢ㄨ闋湇椋捐€岄噸鏂扮叆鐧兼椿鍔涖€傚嵆浣垮儚 ASOS 閫欐ǎ鐨勯浕瀛愬晢鍕欏法闋篃宸茬稉杞夊悜琛楅牠鏈嶈锛岄噰鍙栫灜鐒℃€у垾鐨勭嚐閵锋埌鐣ャ€?/p>
<p class="wp-caption-text" >Stussy SS18 Womens Collection</p><p>鍍?Brashy Studios 鍜?Unravel Project 閫欐ǎ鐨勬柊鑸堝搧鐗岋紝涔熷厖鍒嗙灜瑙ｄ甫鑰冩叜鍏跺鎴剁兢鐨勫妯ｆ€с€?鍦ㄩ瀷椤為牁鍩燂紝鍍?<a href="http://www.nikesteelersshop.com/" target="_blank">Nike</a> 閫欐ǎ鐨勫叕鍙镐篃鍦ㄥ姫鍔涘鐝炬洿鍧囪 鐨勬€у垾璞″緛銆?/p>
<p>Aleali May 瑾亾锛屻€岀暥鎴戝弮鍔犻偅娆?<a href="http://www.nikesteelersshop.com/" target="_blank">Nike 瀹樼恫</a> 鐨勬渻璀版檪锛屼粬鍊戝悜鎴戝睍绀虹灜鎵€鏈夋柊绌庛€佷护浜鸿憲杩蜂甫涓旀矑鏈夋€у垾瀹氱京鐨勬柊 Jordan Brand銆嶃€傚ス鑸?Jordan Brand 鎵€鍚堜綔鐨?Jordan I 鏄辜 Kola 涔嬪緦绗簩鍊嬭垏濂虫€у悎浣滅殑鑱悕绯诲垪銆傘€岃妤腑绺芥渻鏈夊コ鎬ф墦鐮村澹橈紝 鍗充娇鍦ㄧ磩鏃﹀鍏э紝閫欎簺濂虫€т篃鍦ㄥ箷寰岋紝鍔姏鎵撶牬閫欑ó妯″紡銆傘€嶅ス瑁滃厖閬撱€?/p>
<p class="wp-caption-text" >Olga Karput, by Adam Katz Sinding/Le 21eme</p><p>銆屽湪鐝惧涓紝濂虫€т笉鍍呭儏鍙互鍋氱敺鎬у彲浠ュ仛鐨勫伐浣滐紝鑰屼笖鐢氳嚦閭勮兘鍋氬緱鏇村姞鍑鸿壊銆傛湁鏅傚€欐垜鍙互鎰熷彈鍒伴偅浜涗締鑷闋搧鐗岀殑浜轰笉鐩镐俊鎴戜綔鐐轰竴鍊嬪コ鎬у彲浠ユ湁鑳藉姏璩艰卜鏈€鏂扮殑閬嬪嫊闉嬫鍜岀鎶€鎰熸湇椋俱€備絾濡備粖锛屾垜鐨勫叕鍙告鍦ㄩ姺鍞?NikeLab 鍜?adidas Consortium 鐨勬墍鏈夐檺閲忛瀷娆撅紝鑰?Virgil锛孒eron 鍜?Gosha 姝ｅ湪鍜?KM20 鐛ㄥ偄鑱悎鐧间綀鏈€鏂扮殑鑶犲泭绯诲垪銆傘€?Olga Karput 瑾亾銆?/p>
<p>鈥淭here鈥檚 an edge and a coolness to being a young disrespectful, straight male and I think the streetwear industry has definitely glamorized that.鈥?/q></p>
<p>鐣朵粖鐨勮闋湇椋剧殑鍏堥﹨鑰呭€戦渶瑕佹帴绱嶄竴鍊嬭榛烇紝閭ｅ氨鏄闋湇椋剧殑鏀硅畩姝ｅ湪鍙楀埌鍏溇鐨勭洠鐫ｏ紝灏ゅ叾鏄従鍦ㄧ殑骞磋紩浜恒€侭obby Kim 瑙ｉ噵閬擄細銆岄€欎簺瀛╁瓙涓嶆兂鐭ラ亾浣犱笅涓€鍊嬮爡鐩槸浠€楹硷紝浣嗕粬鍊戞渻鍚戜綘鐧煎晱锛氫綘鍦ㄧ偤濂虫€т簨妤仛浜涗粈楹硷紵銆?/p>
<p>閼掓柤 Streetwear 鎿佹湁钁楀姝ら緪澶у勾杓曚汉缇ら珨鍔涢噺锛屽畠鐨勭櫦灞曚害鍙浣滀竴绋亱鍕曘€傝€屽浠婏紝瀹冩铏曟柤涓€鍊嬬壒鍒ョ殑闅庢绡€榛烇紝闄ょ灜鏁撮珨鐨勫舰寮忔敼璁婏紝鏇村笇鏈涜兘鐢㈢敓绌嶆サ鐨勫奖闊垮姏銆傞€欓鍏堟槸鎺ュ彈涓︽壙瑾嶅畠涓€鐩翠互渚嗙殑寮峰ぇ鐩剧墝鈥斺€旂敺鎬х壒娆婏紝涓€鐩存槸銆孊oy’s Club銆嶆ā寮忔垚鍔熺殑椹呭嫊鍥犵礌銆傘€屽皪鏂奸偅浜涗笉鏁殑骞磋紩鐩寸敺鐨勬儭琛岋紝鐝惧湪鏈冩湁鐩告噳鐨勯檺鍒跺拰閭婄晫锛屾垜瑕哄緱琛楅牠鏈嶉＞琛屾キ鑲畾鏈冩洿鍔犵編濂姐€傚緸鍓嶇殑瑷卞鍋氭硶鏄尟瑾ょ殑锛屾垜鍊戦渶瑕佹敼璁婏紝鎴戝€戞湁鑳藉姏鏀硅畩銆傘€?Gibb 瑾€?/p>
<p class="wp-caption-text" >Aleali May x Air Jordan 1</p><p>琛楅牠鏈嶉＞涓殑鎬у垾娆婂姏閬嬪嫊宸茬稉琚瓑鏄庢槸涓€绋挤鏈夊姏鐨勭ぞ鏈冮亱鍕曪紝鍏舵牴婧愭槸鍦ㄦ柤濂虫€ф嫆绲曟帴鍙楀偝绲辩殑鏅傚皻瑕忚寖鍜屾绨姐€傚鏋滆闋湇椋惧彲浠ュ啀娆℃崟鎹夊埌閫欎竴绋笉瀹堟垚瑕忕殑绀炬渻鏀归潻锛屼甫涓斿埄鐢ㄥ叾鐗规瑠鍦颁綅渚嗕績閫茬ぞ鏈冪殑鍖呭鎬э紝琛楅牠鏂囧寲灏囩辜绾岃摤鍕冪櫦灞曘€備絾鏄紝鐣跺悇鍊嬭妤腑鐨勭埗娆婂埗鐨勭祫绻旂祼妲嬮€愭几琚媶闄ょ灜浠ュ緦锛岃闋湇椋惧拰浠ｈ〃鐢锋€х殑銆孊oy鈥檚 Club銆嶆槸鍚﹂倓鑳界辜绾岀敓瀛樹笅鍘汇€?/p>
鏇村鏂版<a href="http://www.nikestore-taiwan.com/">Nike 闉?/a>璜嬮棞娉∟ike 鍙扮仯瀹樼恫锛坵ww.nikestore-taiwan.com锛夊収鐨勪笂鏋惰硣瑷婏紝鍗冭惉涓嶈閷亷浜嗘瘡涓€鍊嬫柊娆鹃亱鍕曡鍌欏摝锛屾坊鍔犵編濂冲鏈峀ine锛歍WDK浜敤涔濇姌鍎儬鍝︺€傘€愭柊娆句綆鑷?.8鎶樿捣銆戙€愰€辨湯鍏╂棩浜敤鍏ㄥ牬9鎶樸€戙€愭豢椤?000绔嬪嵆鍏嶉亱銆?
@RINNYRIOT/HYPEBEAST
Fashion 鏅傝
<p>寰炴煇绋剰缇╀笂渚嗚锛孲treetwear 鐨勬牴鍩烘槸涓€绋爡瀹氫笉绉荤殑绀惧崁鎰忚瓨銆傝€岃繎骞存檪灏氱敘妤皪琛楅牠鏂囧寲鐨勮憲杩凤紝涔熸鏄嚭鏂煎皪閫欑ó鎰忚瓨鍜岀湡瀵︽€х殑鐪嬮噸銆傜劧鑰岋紝Streetwear 鐨勯瓍鍔涙牳蹇冧粛鏄皣鐢锋€х兢楂斾綔鐐虹洰妯欙紝鐩＄閫欑ó鍋氭硶宸茬◢椤緱鍋忛洟涓绘祦 鈥?鍌崇当鍝佺墝鏃╁凡鍩硅偛鍑哄ぇ閲忛嚌灏嶅コ鎬х殑楂樼礆濂緢鍝侊紝鑰岃闋湇椋惧墖瀹屽叏鐩稿弽銆傝闋枃鍖栫敘妤緸杩戝勾璧锋墠闁嬪灏嶅コ鎬х兢楂旂郸浜堟噳鏈夌殑灏婇噸锛屼絾瀹冪殑鏍规簮鏃╁湪骞惧崄骞村墠灏卞凡寤虹珛锛屾渶鏃╁彲浠ヨ拷婧埌 80 鑷?90 骞翠唬鐨勫弽鍌崇当鏂囧寲锛圕ounterculture锛夈€傞毃钁楀叏鐞冨寲鐨勮叧姝ワ紝琛楅牠鏂囧寲鐨勯潰璨岀洝绠′笉鏂锋敼璁婏紝浣嗕粛鏄彈濉楅磯銆佸樆鍝堛€佹粦鏉裤€佽闋拰娌栨氮绛夌ぞ鍗€鏂囧寲鐨勫奖闊匡紝鑰岄€欎簺绀惧崁鏂囧寲鍦ㄥ偝绲变笂閮芥槸鐢锋€у崰涓诲皫鍦颁綅銆?/p>
<p>銆屽緸涓€闁嬪锛?Streetwear 灏变竴鐩翠唬琛ㄨ憲鐗圭珛鐛ㄨ鐨勭敺鎬т簨鐗┿€嶏紝娲涙潐纾闋搧鐗?The Hundreds 鐨勪富鐞嗕汉 Bobby Kim 閫欐ǎ瑾亾锛屼粬鍦?2003 骞存垚绔嬪搧鐗岋紝銆屼絾鎴戣獚鐐哄緸涓€闁嬪灏辨槸閫欐ǎ鐨勫師鍥狅紝鑸囧叾鑳屽緦鐨勪簽鏂囧寲鎭伅鐩搁棞銆傘€嶉牀鍏疯鍒烘剰鍛崇殑鏄紝銆孲treetwear銆嶇殑姒傚康浼间箮寰炰竴闁嬪灏辩珯鍦ㄧ灜銆孎ashion銆嶇殑灏嶇珛闈€傚湪鐣舵檪锛岀敺鎬х兢楂旇垏鏅傚皻鍝佺墝琛屾キ闆欐柟閮藉瓨鍦ㄨ憲涓嶅皯蹇借鑸囪瑙ｃ€傝€?Streetwear 鎵紨鐨勬洿鍍忔槸涓€鍊?Game Changer 鐨勮鑹诧紝浣垮緱瑕忓墖璁婂寲锛屼娇寰楃敺澹彲浠ラ€氶亷涓嶅悓棰ㄦ牸琛ㄩ仈鑷繁锛屼笉蹇呮摂蹇冩渻鍥犳琚布涓婁笉鍚堥仼鐨勭ぞ鏈冩绨姐€傘€屽皪鏂奸偅浜涘皪鏈嶉＞鍜屾檪灏氭劅鑸堣叮鐨勭敺浜轰締瑾紝Streetwear 鏄竴绋洿绨″柈鐨勬柟寮忥紝姝ゅ锛屽皪鏂煎悓鎬х兢楂旇€岃█锛屼篃鏄竴绋洿鐐洪毐韬殑鏂瑰紡 鈥? 鐒¤珫鏄兂琛ㄧず鎴栨帺椋鹃€欑ó韬唤銆傘€岯obby Kim 瑁滃厖閬撱€?/p>
<p class="wp-caption-text" >Supreme x Fox Racing SS18 Collection</p><p>Streetwear 鐐虹敺澹€戝壍閫犵灜涓€鍊嬫柊鐨勭穵瀵嗙浉閫ｇ殑绀句氦绌洪枔锛岃嚜姝わ紝闀锋湡浠ヤ締寤虹珛鏂兼斂娌汇€侀珨鑲层€侀煶妯傚拰钘濊鎰涘ソ鐨勫弸鎯呮墠闁嬪璧板悜鏅傚皻銆傘€孲treetwear 鐢㈡キ涓€闁嬪鏄互鐧戒汉鐢锋€х偤涓诲皫锛岄€欎笉鏄竴浠跺浜嬶紝浣嗗緦渚嗗畠闁嬪璁婃垚鐧戒汉鐢锋€ц嚜濞涜嚜妯傜殑褰㈠紡锛岀敱鐧戒汉閬嬬嚐鍐嶈常绲︾櫧浜猴紝璁婃垚鐬竴鍊嬮潪甯稿皝闁夌殑绌洪枔銆嶏紝Bobby Kim 瑁滃厖閬撱€?/p>
<p>鍦ㄦ鍩虹涓婏紝 Streetwear 閫愭几鍦ㄦ檪灏氱晫浠ュ強鍏朵粬鏂囧寲鐢㈡キ涓劔绌庤€屽嚭锛屼絾瀹冧粛鏄竴鍊嬫姭钁楃ぞ鍗€鏂囧寲绮剧鐨勫琛ｃ€岀敺瀛╀勘妯傞儴銆嶃€傚彈鐢锋€х壒娆婄殑鏀寔锛?Streetwear 鎴愮偤绀句氦绌洪枔涓殑鑹ソ娼ゆ粦鍔戯紝鍚屾檪涔熷挤鍖栫灜涓€绋柊鍨嬬殑棰ㄦ牸锛屼絾瀹冪殑鏈韩鏄熀鏂兼€у垾姝ц鍜屽皪濂虫€х殑浜烘牸鐗╁寲銆?/p>
Streetwear鈥檚 Roots of Sexism
<p>
鍤撮叿鐨勭従瀵︽槸锛岄€欏€嬨€岀敺瀛╀勘妯傞儴銆嶇殑蹇冩厠寰€寰€鏈冨壍閫犱竴鍊嬪皪濂虫€фサ鐐轰笉鍙嬪ソ鐨勭挵澧冦€傘€屽湪绱愮磩锛屾湁涓€浜?Streetwear 搴楄垨鏈冮泧鍌灜涓€澶х兢榄佹ⅶ绮楁毚鐨勭敺鎬у簵鍝★紝鑰屾垜鐨勫緢澶氭湅鍙嬮兘閬埌鐬敾鎿娿€嶏紝Married to the Mob 鍓靛浜虹殑 Leah McSweeney 鍦ㄨ鍟忓強 Streetwear 鐨勬棭鏈熸枃鍖栫挵澧冩檪閫欐ǎ瑾亾銆?/p>
<p>Leah McSweeney 鏂?2004 骞村壍绔嬬灜濂圭殑鍊嬩汉鍝佺墝锛屽ス鏄コ鎬?Streetwear 鐨勬棭鏈熷厛椹呬箣涓€锛屼甫涓€鐩磋嚧鍔涙柤濉閫欏绌虹櫧锛屾墦鎿婅妤皪濂虫€х殑涓嶅叕骞冲皪寰呫€傚ス鏃╂湡鏈€鍏锋蹇楁€х殑瑷▓涔嬩竴鏄€孲upreme Bitch銆嶏紝鐒惰€屽緦渚嗚 Supreme 瑷翠互鍟嗘渚垫瑠涓︾储璩?1000 钀編鍏冦€傛渶鍏疯鍒烘剰鍛崇殑鏄紝Supreme 鏈韩涔熸槸鐩存帴寰炶棟琛撳偄 Barbara Kruger 铏曠洿鎺ョ洔鐢ㄧ灜妯欏織銆?/p>
<p>
</p>
<p>鈥淚t was definitely very predatory. It鈥檚 almost sad how much it was. It was such a part of my world that I didn鈥檛 realize it was a bad thing.鈥?/q></p>
<p>閫犲瀷甯吋鍓垫剰绺界洠 Beth Bephie Gibb 鍦?90 骞翠唬涓湡鏇惧湪 St眉ssy 鍜?Supreme 宸ヤ綔锛屽ス涔熺偤鎴戝€戝洖椤х灜鐣舵檪閫欎簺绱愮磩钁楀悕婊戞澘鍟嗗簵涓殑甯歌鎺犲オ寮忔枃鍖栥€傘€岄€欑ó鎺犲オ鐨勬柟寮忔槸澶氶杭鐨勪护浜洪洠閬庯紝閫欐槸鎴戠暥鏅傜敓娲荤殑涓€閮ㄥ垎锛屼絾鎴戞矑鏈夋剰璀樺埌閫欐槸涓€浠跺浜嬨€傘€?/p>
<p>闅ㄨ憲鍏叡瑭辫獮娆婄殑杞夎畩锛岀劇璜栨槸濂虫€ч倓鏄敺鎬ч兘鏈夌灜鏇撮枊鏀剧殑绌洪枔渚嗗垎浜粬鍊戠殑鍊嬩汉缍撴銆傞€氶亷閫欑ó灏嶈┍锛屾垜鍊戝彲浠ユ繁鍒诲弽鎬濆湪宸ヤ綔鍫存墍涓殑鎬у垾姝ц鎵€鍙兘鐢㈢敓鐨勫奖闊匡紝鍖呮嫭濂虫€ф瘮鐢锋€у彈鍒扮殑绯荤当鍫遍叕灏戯紝浠ュ強闀锋湡鐨勬€чǚ鎿惧拰铏愬緟銆?/p>
<p>鐢辨柤鐢锋€т富灏庣殑鏍瑰熀锛孲treetwear 涔熸槸閫欑ó绀炬渻绲愭鐨勪竴鍊嬬府褰憋紝鐢氳嚦鎴愮偤閫欎簺鍟忛鐨勬韩搴娿€傞棞鏂笺€岀敺瀛╀勘妯傞儴銆嶅収閮ㄧ殑瑾炶█鍜岃鐐猴紝Gibb 瑁滃厖閬擄紝銆屼竴鍒囬兘鍗佸垎浠や汉鍘儭銆傜従鍦ㄤ綘鍙兘鏇村父鑱藉埌鎴栫湅鍒伴€欎簺鐝捐薄锛屼絾鍦ㄧ暥鏅傦紝鏁村€嬪勾杓曠敺瀛╃殑涓栫晫閮借鍏佽ū鍋氶浼肩殑浜嬶紝瑾浼肩殑瑭憋紝渚嗕互淇濇寔鎵€璎傜殑銆嶫ust Boys’銆傞€欐槸涓€鍊嬬敺瀛╀勘妯傞儴锛屼粬鍊戝緢骞磋紩锛岃€屼笖寰堜笉鎴愮啛銆傘€?/p>
<p>
</p>
<p>鐐虹灜瑕佷繚鎸侀€欑ó銆孞ust Boys銆嶏紝鏁村€?Streetwear 鏂囧寲琛屾キ鐨勫弮鑸囪€咃紝寰炰笂鑷充笅锛岄兘鏈夋剰璀樺湴锛堢洝绠℃湁鏅傚湪涓嶇煡涓嶈涓級鍓甸€犵灜涓€绋績閫茬敺鎬у湗绲愶紝鍚屾檪鎺掓枼濂虫€у弮鑸囪€呯殑鐠板銆傞毃钁楄秺渚嗚秺澶氱殑鐢锋€ч枊濮嬮棞瑷?Streetwear锛岀敺鎬т富灏庣殑绀惧崁瑷存眰浠嶇劧鏄叾鐧煎睍鐨勯噸瑕佺祫鎴愰儴鍒嗐€傚拰鍏朵粬鐢风敓涓€璧锋帓闅婄瓑寰呮渶鏂扮殑鍠搧鐧煎敭锛岄€欑ó鐝捐薄浼间箮鎴愮偤鐬€岃闋枃鍖栥€嶇殑浠ｅ悕瑭炪€?/p>
<p>闅ㄨ憲鏁稿瓧鏅備唬鐨勫埌渚嗭紝閫欑ó绀惧崁鎰忚瓨鍦ㄧ恫涓婂緱鍒扮灜鐒￠檺鏀惧ぇ锛屽悇绋钩鑷虹偤蹇楄叮鐩告姇鐨勪汉鍊戝壍閫犵灜涓€鍊嬫暩瀛楃┖闁擄紝浠ュ缓绔嬬湡姝ｇ殑鑱郴锛岃垏姝ゅ悓鏅傦紝瀹冧篃鐐烘儭榄斿壍閫犵灜婧簥銆?/p>
<p>鈥淭he thing that people were saying on these forums was nuts. 鈥業 hope she gets AIDS, she鈥檚 just sucking dick to get into the scene.鈥欌€?/q></p>
<p>鍦ㄥ叕鐪剧洠鐫ｈ寖鍦嶅鐨勯€欎簺浜掕伅缍茶钀戒腑锛屼富瑕佺敱鐢锋€х祫鎴愮殑绀句氦骞宠嚭涓嶄箯璨朵綆濂虫€х殑瑷€璜栵紝鐢氳嚦閭勬秹鍙婂皪鍏朵粬绀剧兢鐨勬瑕栬█璜栥€傘€屼粬鍊戝湪閫欎簺骞宠嚭涓婃渻瑾嚭瑷卞鎯℃瘨鐨勮┍锛屻€庢垜甯屾湜濂瑰緱鑹炬粙鐥呫€忥紝銆庡ス姝诲緦涔熶笉鑳戒笂澶╁爞銆忎箣椤炵殑銆嶏紝McSweeney 鍥炴喍閬撱€?/p>
<p>铏涙摤灞忓箷鎵€鎺堜簣鐨勯€欑ó鍖垮悕鎬э紝浠ュ線瑷卞琚毐钘忕殑瑷€璜栧浠婂彲浠ヨ倖鐒″繉鎲氬湴鏆撮湶銆傚緸鍝佺墝 Campaign銆丩ookbook锛屽埌 T-Shirt 涓婄殑鍗拌姳鍦栨锛岄€欎簺琚獚鐐烘槸 Streetwear 鐨勬牳蹇冨惛寮曢粸鍗诲線寰€婊嬬敓鍑轰笉骞崇瓑鍜屽皪濂虫€х殑瓒呮€у寲銆?/p>
<p class="wp-caption-text" >Founder of Some Ware, Brendon Fowler (left)</p><p>閫欑ó鍔涢噺涔嬪挤浠ヨ嚧鏂间笉灏戣闋搧鐗?DNA 涓湁鐬€欑ó鎴愬垎锛岀敋鑷宠獚鐐猴紝灏囧搧鐗屾垨琛屾キ鍚戝コ鎬ч枊鏀惧彲鑳芥渻鎼嶅閫欑ó DNA銆傘€屾垜瑾嶇偤涓€浜涘勾杓曠殑鐢峰娑堣不鑰呴倓鎶辨湁涓€绋惤寰岀殑鎬濈董锛岃獚鐐哄コ鎬х┛钁?Unisex 鐨勬湇椋惧氨鏄儭渚嗭紝鑰岄偅浜涘皥鐐哄コ鎬ф墦閫犵殑鏈嶉＞涔熶甫涓嶉仼鍚堝ス鍊戙€嶏紝Some Ware 鐨勫壍濮嬩汉鍏煎壍鎰忕附鐩?Brendan Fowler 琛ㄧず锛屽搧鐗岀殑瑷▓涓€璨噰鐢?Unisex 鐨勯ⅷ鏍硷紝銆屾垨瑷变粬鍊戦毣鏄繏鎱ｆ柤鐢ㄥ骞翠互渚嗙繏寰楃殑鎬у垾棰ㄦ牸渚嗘€濊€冦€傘€?/p>
<p>闅ㄨ憲鏅備唬娼祦鐨勬洿鐤婏紝鏂囧寲鐨勫収娑靛拰鑳屾櫙纰哄鍦ㄨ畩鍖栵紝銆孊oys will be boys銆嶄甫涓嶈兘鎴愮偤閭ｄ簺琛ㄩ仈鐬コ鎬х墿鍖栫殑鍦栬薄銆佽﹩姣€濂虫€х殑宸ヤ綔鐠板銆佷互鍙婃矑鏈夋纰烘寚灏庣敺瀛╁€戣█琛岀殑钘夊彛銆?/p>
Women鈥檚 Path of Breaking In: The Exceptions
<p>
鐩＄ Streetwear 鐨勫ぇ澶氭暩钁楃敤鑰呴兘鏄敺鎬э紝浣嗗コ鎬ц闋檪灏氬厛椹呭悓妯ｄ篃鐐虹従鍦ㄧ殑琛楅牠娴佽浣滃嚭閬庡倯鍑虹殑璨㈢嵒锛岄毣鏄€欑ó璨㈢嵒寰€寰€鏄崄鍒嗗鏄撹澶х溇鎵€蹇界暐鐨勩€備簨瀵︿笂锛岄浂鍞晢 Union 鍦ㄧ磹绱勮闋枊瑷殑绗竴闁撳簵鑸栵紝鎴愮偤鐬闋湇椋炬鍙蹭笂鐨勪竴鍊嬮噸瑕佺殑瑁＄▼纰戯紝璞″緛钁楄闋祦琛屾湇椋剧殑鍟嗘キ鍖栵紝鑰岄€欎笉鍍呭儏姝稿姛鏂?James Jebbia锛屼篃寰楃泭鏂间粬鐨勫コ鎬ф惌妾?Mary Ann Fusco 鐨勭獊鍑鸿并鐛汇€傞櫎鐬叡鍚岄枊瑷闋湇椋鹃浂鍞晢搴?Union 浠ュ锛屽叐浜洪倓鏇惧叡鍚屽壍绔嬬灜鐣朵粖鏈€鍏峰奖闊垮姏鐨勮闋搧鐗?Supreme锛屼絾浣滅偤濂虫€у壍濮嬩汉鐨?Fusco 鍗诲父甯歌涓栦汉鎵€蹇界暐銆?/p>
<p>Gibb 瑾亾锛氥€孧ary Ann 鏄闋湇椋惧晢妤寲鐨勫厛閶掕€呬箣涓€锛屼絾浣犲彲鑳藉緸渚嗛兘娌掓湁鑱借閬庨€欏€嬪悕瀛椼€傘€嶈嚦浠婇兘娌掓湁鑳藉鏄庣櫧鐐轰粈楹兼棭鏈熺殑琛楅牠鏅傚皻濂充腑璞倯娌掓湁鑳藉寰楀埌澶х溇鐨勮獚鍙紝灏遍€?Fusco 鑷繁閮芥劅鍒扮枒鎯戙€傘€屾湁鏅傚€欐垜鏈冩劅鍒板緢姘ｆ啢銆嶏紝Fusco 鍧愬湪濂圭殑鍙よ憲鍟嗗簵 Maison Jadis 瑁¤閬擄紝銆屾浘缍撴槸鎴戣畵鎵€鏈夌殑搴楄垨閮借蛋鍚戠灜姝ｈ粚锛屼絾 James 姘搁仩涓嶆渻鎵胯獚 鈥?濡傛灉娌掓湁鐣舵檪鐨勬垜锛屽氨娌掓湁鐝惧湪鐨勪粬銆傘€?/p>
<p>
</p>
<p>銆屾垜鎯充竴閮ㄥ垎鐨勫師鍥犳噳瑭叉槸锛屽ぇ閮ㄥ垎濂虫€ф槸琚敺鎬у付閫茶闋檪灏氱殑鍦堝瓙瑁°€傛鏄洜鐐烘湁閫欑ó涓嶅厜褰╃殑浜嬫儏鐧肩敓锛屽湪琛楅牠鏂囧寲涓墠娌掍汉姝ｈ濂虫€с€傘€岹ibb 瑙ｉ噵閬撱€?/p>
<p>鐒¤珫鏄洜鐐虹埗娆婂埗鏀厤钁楀獟楂斿拰澶栭儴鐨勬梺瑙€鑰呮垨鏄亱鍕曠殑鍏ч儴绲愭锛屽コ鎬ч兘琚媼妫勫湪琛楅牠鏈嶉＞鐨勬鍙查暦娌充箣澶栥€傞€欓兘鏄湪閫欐閬撹矾涓婂凡缍撶暀涓嬫繁鍒诲奖闊跨殑濂虫€ц嚜鎴戞剰璀樺拰鍫呮寔鎶楃埈鎬у垾鍕曞姏鐨勭祼鏋溿€傘€屽湪寰堝琛楅牠鏈嶉＞鍏徃鍜屽搧鐗屽収閮戒互鐢锋€у摗宸ョ偤涓伙紝鍥犳锛屼綔鐐轰竴鍊嬪コ鎬ф兂瑕佸湪鏈冭涓埈鍙栬┍瑾炴瑠鏄竴鍊嬭瓑鏄庤嚜鎴戠殑宸ㄥぇ鎸戞埌銆嶏紝鐢疯鍝佺墝 ALCH 鍓靛浜?Alexandra Hackett 濡傛槸瑾亾銆傛濡傛墍鏈夎妤竴妯ｏ紝璐忓緱瑭辫獮娆婃垚鐐虹灜濂虫€х殑鑷垜鎸戞埌锛岄€欎笉鍍呮帹鍕曠灜濂虫€ц闋枃鍖栫殑閫茬▼锛屼篃鍚屾檪鐐哄叾浠栫壒鎰涜闋枃鍖栫殑濂虫€фü绔嬬灜姝ｇ⒑鐨勬妯ｃ€?/p>
<p class="wp-caption-text" >Founder of ALCH, Alexandra Hackett</p><p>鈥淚t was a way of growing up in the hood and being fashionable and saying I鈥檓 a tough girl, don鈥檛 holla me on the street. In a way it was fashion but it was also protection.鈥?/q></p>
<p>銆屼綔鐐轰竴鍚嶅皪宸ヤ綔鍜岃棟琛撻兘闈炲父瑾嶇湡鍜屽皥瑷荤殑骞磋紩濂虫€э紝閫欐槸鎴戝拰鐢锋€ц闈甫涓嶈鍏剁墿鍖栫殑涓€绋柟寮忋€傘€峍ashtie Kola 瑙ｉ噵濂圭偤浠€楹兼渻鍠滄涓?銆岀敺鎬у寲銆?鐨勮闋ⅷ鏍笺€侹ola 鍚屾檪涔熸槸涓€鍊嬮煶妯傝闋诲皫婕旓紝鍦?2000 骞存棭鏈熺殑绱愮磩甯備腑蹇冧勘妯傞儴鏂囧寲涓璀界偤鍏堥﹨銆?010骞达紝濂规垚鐐烘鍙蹭笂绗竴浣嶈垏 Jordan Brand 鍚堜綔鐨勫コ鎬? 浣嗕簨瀵︿笂閫欎篃鏄?Jordan II 鐨勭涓€娆¤伅鍚嶃€?/p>
<p>銆岀洝绠℃湁濂虫€у厓绱犵殑鍙冭垏锛屼絾鏁撮珨涓婇倓鏄憟鐝惧崄鍒嗙敺鎬у寲鐨勯ⅷ鏍笺€傚湪鎴戜締鐪嬮€欐槸涓€绋垚闀风殑鏂瑰紡锛屽湪鏅傞鐨勫悓鏅傦紝鎴戦倓鎯宠〃閬旓細銆庢垜鏄竴鍊嬪爡寮风殑濂冲锛屾墍浠ヤ笉瑕佸湪琛椾笂灏嶆垜澶у懠灏忓彨銆傘€忓湪鏌愮ó绋嬪害涓婇€欐槸涓€绋檪楂︼紝浣嗚垏姝ゅ悓鏅傞€欎篃鏄湪鑷垜淇濊銆傘€岾ola 瑁滃厖閬撱€?/p>
<p class="wp-caption-text" >Jordan Brand Collaborator, Vashtie Kola</p><p>鍌崇当鐨勭敺鎬х壒寰佸拰鍏冪礌宸茬稉鎴愮偤琚€孊oy’s Club銆嶆帴绱嶇殑濂虫€ф垚鍝＄殑韬唤瑾嶈瓑銆?Kola銆丮cSweeney銆丟ibb 鍜?KITH 鏇剧稉鐨勫コ鎬ч牁灏庝汉 Emily Oberg 閮芥浘鍏枊琛ㄨ堪閬庯紝浠栧€戞浘缍撹鐢锋€у寲鐨勮闋ⅷ鏍兼墍鍚稿紩锛屼甫涓斿湪鎴愰暦鐠板涓父甯歌鐢锋€ц鑹叉墍鍦嶇篂銆傘€屾垜鏇剧稉鍦ㄨ韩閭婂叏鏄敺瀛╃殑鐠板涓嬮暦澶э紝涓︿笖鎴愮偤鍋囧皬瀛愭渻璁撴垜瑕哄緱寰堣嚜鍦紝鎵€浠ユ垜灏嶅浣曡瀺鍏ョ敺鎬т富灏庣殑涓栫晫涔熺挡姣矑鏈夊鍔涖€嶏紝鏈€杩戝墰鍓涜垏 Jordan Brand 鍚堜綔閬庣殑閫犲瀷甯?Aleali May 瑾亾銆?/p>
<p class="wp-caption-text" >Alkali May, by Adam Katz Sinding/Le 21eme</p><p>鐢辨柤琛楅牠鏅傚皻渚嗚嚜鏂肩敺鎬э紝鍥犳鏈€鏃╄琛楅牠棰ㄦ牸鎵€鍚稿紩鐨勫コ鎬ч兘灏嶅偝绲辩殑鐢锋€чⅷ鏍煎拰鎰涘ソ鎰熻垐瓒ｃ€傚緸鏌愮ó鎰忕京涓婁締璎涳紝濂瑰€戦兘鐢熶笉閫㈡檪锛屽皪鏂煎儚 May 鍜?Kola 閫欐ǎ鐨勫コ鎬т締瑾紝閫欐剰鍛宠憲涓€绋鎺ョ磵鐨勬劅瑕恒€?銆屾垜瑕哄緱鎴戣鎺ュ彈鐬紝鍥犵偤鎴戞槸涓€鍊嬨€庡亣灏忓瓙銆忋€岾ola 瑾€?銆屾垜瑾嶇偤锛屾垜浠ユ煇绋柟寮忚瀺鍏ョ灜鐢峰锛岄€欏皪鎴戜締瑾氨鍍忔粦鍐颁竴妯ｅ榄氬緱姘淬€傘€?/p>
<p>鐣剁劧锛屼甫涓嶆槸鎵€鏈夊枩鎰?Streetwear 鐨勫コ鎬ч兘鏈冨湪銆屽亣灏忓瓙銆嶇殑蹇冩厠涓壘鍒拌獚鍚屾劅锛屼篃涓︿笉鏄墍鏈夊枩鎰涜闋枃鍖栫殑濂虫€ч兘鎰熷埌琚拷瑕栧拰涓嶅皧閲嶃€傘€屾垜浠ュ墠鏄垜鑷繁鐨勮€佹澘锛屾垜鎺屾帶鎵€鏈夌殑浜嬫儏锛岃€岄偅浜涚敺浜哄€戝墖闇€瑕佽伣浠ゆ柤鎴戙€嶏紝鏃╂湡鎺屾彙娆婂姏鐨?Fusco 濡傛槸瑾亾銆?/p>
<p>鈥淛ust because I鈥檓 鈥榓ccepted鈥?doesn鈥檛 mean that men should go around disrespecting other women.鈥?/q></p>
<p>灏嶆柤鍏朵粬濂虫€т締瑾紝鍙冭垏鍒拌闋檪灏氫腑鍜屾垚鐐轰竴鍊嬨€屽亣灏忓瓙銆?锛屾槸濂瑰€戠敤渚嗘墦鐮村偝绲辨€у垾瑙掕壊鍗€鍒嗗拰鍌崇当鎬у垾鏈熸湜鐨勪唬鍚嶈銆傘€屾垜鍦ㄦ煇绋▼搴︿笂琚帴鍙楁垚鐐轰竴鍊嬬敺瀛? 浣嗛€欎笉浠ｈ〃鎴戣獚鍚屼粬鍊戝彲浠ヤ笉灏婇噸浠讳綍濂虫€с€傘€峂cSweeney 瑾亾銆?/p>
<p>鍚屾檪锛岃闋枃鍖栦甫涓嶆槸鎲戠┖鍑虹従鐨勶紝濡備粖琛楅牠鏂囧寲涔熶笉鍙兘鎲戠┖鐢熷瓨涓嬪幓銆傛墍浠ワ紝鎯宠鎵撶牬鍌崇当瑙€蹇电殑琛楅牠濂虫€у繀闋堝緸闊虫▊銆佽闋诲拰钘濊绛夋柟闈㈡寔绾屾姉鐖笅鍘汇€傛垚鐐鸿闋疆娴佺殑涓€浠藉瓙锛屼甫涓嶄唬琛ㄩ毣闇€瑕佽瀺鍏ュ埌鐢锋€у湗楂旓紝鑰屼笖闇€瑕佸コ鎬у湪鏂囧寲璨㈢嵒涓婇渶瑕佹寔绾屽姫鍔涗甫鎴愮偤琛楅牠鏂囧寲鐨勪富鍔涜粛銆?/p>
<p>濡傛灉闅绘槸鍠磾鐨勬兂椤涜鐖舵瑠鍒剁殑绀炬渻褰㈡厠鑰屾姷鍒跺コ鎬у湪琛楅牠娼祦涓墍鍙楀埌鐨勬瑕栵紝閫欑ó鎯虫硶涓嶅儏鏄墖闈㈢殑锛岃€屼笖閭勯樆绀欑灜琛楅牠鏈嶉＞鐨勭櫦灞曞拰娼涘湪澧為暦銆?/p>
Dismantling the 鈥淏oys鈥?Club鈥?/h2>
<p>
闅ㄨ憲琛楅牠鏈嶉＞甯傚牬鐨勫闀峰拰鍌崇当鏅傚皻鍒嗙晫鐨勬ā绯婏紝琛楅牠鏈嶉＞鐨勯潰璨屽繀鐒舵渻鏀硅畩鍜岀櫦灞曘€備絾浠嶆湁寰呰瀵熺殑鏄紝鏄惁琛楅牠鏈嶉＞鐨勮畩鍖栦篃鏈冭垏绀句氦姘ｅ€欏拰甯傚牬闇€姹傜殑璁婂寲鐩稿惢鍚堛€?/p>
<p>銆屽コ鎬т簨妤櫦灞曞埌鐝惧湪锛屾垜鍊戝凡缍撳彲浠ヨ鍑鸿嚜宸辩殑鐪熷鎯虫硶鐬€傚コ鎬ц闋湇椋惧競鍫撮毃钁楀コ鎬ч亱鍕曡€屽闀凤紝鐝惧湪鐨勫コ鎬ц闋湇椋惧競鍫村凡缍撴瘮浠ュ墠澶у緢澶氱灜銆傘€岾ola 瑾亾锛屻€屽皪鏂艰ū澶氭柊閫插叆閫欏€嬪競鍫寸殑鍝佺墝渚嗚锛岀瀯婧栧コ鎬ц闋湇椋炬秷璨昏€呮槸涓€鍊嬮潪甯告槑鏅轰甫鏈夊埄鍙湒鐨勬焙瀹氥€備絾鏄紝閫欎篃寰€寰€瀹规槗璁撻€欎簺鍝佺墝闄峰叆涓€鍊嬭糠鎬濅腑锛岄偅灏辨槸銆庡コ鎬ф湇椋惧繀闋堣绮夌磪锛屽繀闋堣灏忕⒓銆忋€傘€?/p>
<p>鈥淲omen feel confident and cool in their oversized clothes now. We don鈥檛 need tight dresses to feel feminine.鈥?/q></p>
<p>鍚屾ǎ Hackett 涔熻锛氥€岃ū澶氬搧鐗岄兘涓嶆槑鐧芥煇鍊嬬壒瀹氳妤槸鎬庢ǎ閬嬩綔鐨勩€傛垜宸茬稉鐪嬮亷澶鍝佺墝瑾嶇偤濂崇敓灏辨槸鎳夎┎鍠滄绮夎壊鍜屽ア鑿殑闈㈡枡銆傘€?/p>
<p>鐒¤珫鏄€佸搧鐗岄倓鏄柊鍝佺墝锛屾剰璀樺埌鎿鍌崇当鐨勭敺鎬ф埃璩紝涓﹁獚璀樺埌鐒℃€у垾鎵嶆槸琛楅牠鏅傚皻鏈締鎵嶆槸鎴愬姛鐨勯噸瑕侀棞閸点€傘€岀従鍦ㄧ殑濂虫€ц獚鐐?Oversized 鏈嶉＞鑳藉绲︿粬鍊戝付渚嗚嚜淇★紝 鎴戝€戜笉闇€瑕佺穵韬。鏈嶄締鎰熷彈濂虫€ч瓍鍔涖€嶏紝鑾柉绉戣憲鍚嶈闋湇瑁濆拰鏅傚皻璨锋墜搴?KM20 鐨勫壍濮嬩汉 Olga Karput 瑾€?/p>
<p class="wp-caption-text" >Pioneer of the ‘Streetwear Feminism’ Movement, Adrianne Ho</p><p>鐣㈢珶锛孴-Shirt 鍜?Hoodie 鎵嶆槸琛楅牠鏈嶉＞鐨勬牳蹇冿紝鍏舵湰璩氨鏄敺濂崇殕瀹滐紝 閫欎篃鏄皣渚嗚闋湇椋捐綁璁婁腑涓嶅彲鍋忛洟鐨勬牳蹇冦€傝ū澶氬搧鐗屽拰鍏徃閮藉湪鍚戦€欎竴姒傚康闈犳攺锛屽氨閫ｆ浘缍撳绋辩劇鎬у垾鐨勮闋湇椋炬蹇垫槸鐥呮厠鐨勫ア渚堝搧鐗岄兘澶ц伈鍛煎枈瑕佸姞鍏ラ€欎竴娴疆銆?/p>
<p>浜嬪涓婏紝鍍?Vetements锛孫ff-White鈩紝Heron Preston 鍜?ALYX 閫欐ǎ鐨勮闋疆娴佺殑鏂板鍏掗兘鏄€氶亷濂虫€х敘鍝佺殑鎺ㄥ嫊鑰屽彇寰楁垚鍔熺殑銆傝垏姝ゅ悓鏅傦紝Balenciaga 鍜?Gucci 绛夊偝绲卞搧鐗屼篃鍥犻噰鐢ㄨ闋湇椋捐€岄噸鏂扮叆鐧兼椿鍔涖€傚嵆浣垮儚 ASOS 閫欐ǎ鐨勯浕瀛愬晢鍕欏法闋篃宸茬稉杞夊悜琛楅牠鏈嶈锛岄噰鍙栫灜鐒℃€у垾鐨勭嚐閵锋埌鐣ャ€?/p>
<p class="wp-caption-text" >Stussy SS18 Womens Collection</p><p>鍍?Brashy Studios 鍜?Unravel Project 閫欐ǎ鐨勬柊鑸堝搧鐗岋紝涔熷厖鍒嗙灜瑙ｄ甫鑰冩叜鍏跺鎴剁兢鐨勫妯ｆ€с€?鍦ㄩ瀷椤為牁鍩燂紝鍍?<a href="http://www.nikesteelersshop.com/" target="_blank">Nike</a> 閫欐ǎ鐨勫叕鍙镐篃鍦ㄥ姫鍔涘鐝炬洿鍧囪 鐨勬€у垾璞″緛銆?/p>
<p>Aleali May 瑾亾锛屻€岀暥鎴戝弮鍔犻偅娆?<a href="http://www.nikesteelersshop.com/" target="_blank">Nike 瀹樼恫</a> 鐨勬渻璀版檪锛屼粬鍊戝悜鎴戝睍绀虹灜鎵€鏈夋柊绌庛€佷护浜鸿憲杩蜂甫涓旀矑鏈夋€у垾瀹氱京鐨勬柊 Jordan Brand銆嶃€傚ス鑸?Jordan Brand 鎵€鍚堜綔鐨?Jordan I 鏄辜 Kola 涔嬪緦绗簩鍊嬭垏濂虫€у悎浣滅殑鑱悕绯诲垪銆傘€岃妤腑绺芥渻鏈夊コ鎬ф墦鐮村澹橈紝 鍗充娇鍦ㄧ磩鏃﹀鍏э紝閫欎簺濂虫€т篃鍦ㄥ箷寰岋紝鍔姏鎵撶牬閫欑ó妯″紡銆傘€嶅ス瑁滃厖閬撱€?/p>
<p class="wp-caption-text" >Olga Karput, by Adam Katz Sinding/Le 21eme</p><p>銆屽湪鐝惧涓紝濂虫€т笉鍍呭儏鍙互鍋氱敺鎬у彲浠ュ仛鐨勫伐浣滐紝鑰屼笖鐢氳嚦閭勮兘鍋氬緱鏇村姞鍑鸿壊銆傛湁鏅傚€欐垜鍙互鎰熷彈鍒伴偅浜涗締鑷闋搧鐗岀殑浜轰笉鐩镐俊鎴戜綔鐐轰竴鍊嬪コ鎬у彲浠ユ湁鑳藉姏璩艰卜鏈€鏂扮殑閬嬪嫊闉嬫鍜岀鎶€鎰熸湇椋俱€備絾濡備粖锛屾垜鐨勫叕鍙告鍦ㄩ姺鍞?NikeLab 鍜?adidas Consortium 鐨勬墍鏈夐檺閲忛瀷娆撅紝鑰?Virgil锛孒eron 鍜?Gosha 姝ｅ湪鍜?KM20 鐛ㄥ偄鑱悎鐧间綀鏈€鏂扮殑鑶犲泭绯诲垪銆傘€?Olga Karput 瑾亾銆?/p>
<p>鈥淭here鈥檚 an edge and a coolness to being a young disrespectful, straight male and I think the streetwear industry has definitely glamorized that.鈥?/q></p>
<p>鐣朵粖鐨勮闋湇椋剧殑鍏堥﹨鑰呭€戦渶瑕佹帴绱嶄竴鍊嬭榛烇紝閭ｅ氨鏄闋湇椋剧殑鏀硅畩姝ｅ湪鍙楀埌鍏溇鐨勭洠鐫ｏ紝灏ゅ叾鏄従鍦ㄧ殑骞磋紩浜恒€侭obby Kim 瑙ｉ噵閬擄細銆岄€欎簺瀛╁瓙涓嶆兂鐭ラ亾浣犱笅涓€鍊嬮爡鐩槸浠€楹硷紝浣嗕粬鍊戞渻鍚戜綘鐧煎晱锛氫綘鍦ㄧ偤濂虫€т簨妤仛浜涗粈楹硷紵銆?/p>
<p>閼掓柤 Streetwear 鎿佹湁钁楀姝ら緪澶у勾杓曚汉缇ら珨鍔涢噺锛屽畠鐨勭櫦灞曚害鍙浣滀竴绋亱鍕曘€傝€屽浠婏紝瀹冩铏曟柤涓€鍊嬬壒鍒ョ殑闅庢绡€榛烇紝闄ょ灜鏁撮珨鐨勫舰寮忔敼璁婏紝鏇村笇鏈涜兘鐢㈢敓绌嶆サ鐨勫奖闊垮姏銆傞€欓鍏堟槸鎺ュ彈涓︽壙瑾嶅畠涓€鐩翠互渚嗙殑寮峰ぇ鐩剧墝鈥斺€旂敺鎬х壒娆婏紝涓€鐩存槸銆孊oy’s Club銆嶆ā寮忔垚鍔熺殑椹呭嫊鍥犵礌銆傘€屽皪鏂奸偅浜涗笉鏁殑骞磋紩鐩寸敺鐨勬儭琛岋紝鐝惧湪鏈冩湁鐩告噳鐨勯檺鍒跺拰閭婄晫锛屾垜瑕哄緱琛楅牠鏈嶉＞琛屾キ鑲畾鏈冩洿鍔犵編濂姐€傚緸鍓嶇殑瑷卞鍋氭硶鏄尟瑾ょ殑锛屾垜鍊戦渶瑕佹敼璁婏紝鎴戝€戞湁鑳藉姏鏀硅畩銆傘€?Gibb 瑾€?/p>
<p class="wp-caption-text" >Aleali May x Air Jordan 1</p><p>琛楅牠鏈嶉＞涓殑鎬у垾娆婂姏閬嬪嫊宸茬稉琚瓑鏄庢槸涓€绋挤鏈夊姏鐨勭ぞ鏈冮亱鍕曪紝鍏舵牴婧愭槸鍦ㄦ柤濂虫€ф嫆绲曟帴鍙楀偝绲辩殑鏅傚皻瑕忚寖鍜屾绨姐€傚鏋滆闋湇椋惧彲浠ュ啀娆℃崟鎹夊埌閫欎竴绋笉瀹堟垚瑕忕殑绀炬渻鏀归潻锛屼甫涓斿埄鐢ㄥ叾鐗规瑠鍦颁綅渚嗕績閫茬ぞ鏈冪殑鍖呭鎬э紝琛楅牠鏂囧寲灏囩辜绾岃摤鍕冪櫦灞曘€備絾鏄紝鐣跺悇鍊嬭妤腑鐨勭埗娆婂埗鐨勭祫绻旂祼妲嬮€愭几琚媶闄ょ灜浠ュ緦锛岃闋湇椋惧拰浠ｈ〃鐢锋€х殑銆孊oy鈥檚 Club銆嶆槸鍚﹂倓鑳界辜绾岀敓瀛樹笅鍘汇€?/p>
鏇村鏂版<a href="http://www.nikestore-taiwan.com/">Nike 闉?/a>璜嬮棞娉∟ike 鍙扮仯瀹樼恫锛坵ww.nikestore-taiwan.com锛夊収鐨勪笂鏋惰硣瑷婏紝鍗冭惉涓嶈閷亷浜嗘瘡涓€鍊嬫柊娆鹃亱鍕曡鍌欏摝锛屾坊鍔犵編濂冲鏈峀ine锛歍WDK浜敤涔濇姌鍎儬鍝︺€傘€愭柊娆句綆鑷?.8鎶樿捣銆戙€愰€辨湯鍏╂棩浜敤鍏ㄥ牬9鎶樸€戙€愭豢椤?000绔嬪嵆鍏嶉亱銆?
by tianmoyi
Vocabulary List
- 0
